German varietals have been in decline in New World markets for decades due to the simple, off-dry style that was offered. In this writer's opinion, there were few, if any, remarkable examples of either Riesling, Sylvaner or Gewürztraminer offered from New World producers until recent years. Gewürztraminer still proves a difficult variety everywhere outside of Alsace, but Riesling may be turning the corner.
First of all, 2007 saw an explosion of interest in the variety. The world's most southernly vineyard—in Argentina's Patagonia region—was planted to Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Klaus Peter Keller of Weingut Keller in the Rheinhessen started work on a vineyard in southern Norway devoted exclusively to Riesling. Even in Turkey, a cradle of domestic viniculture, the two major producers—Tekel and Doluca—expanded their production of Riesling.
Even Michigan has distinguished itself with its excellent Rieslings. Chateau Grand Traverse made 35,000 cases of excellent Riesling in 2007. Many reviewers have suggested that Michigan might have hit pay dirt with this variety.
The most revered proponent of New World Riesling is probably Dr. Konstantin Frank of Vinifera Wine Cellers in New York's Finger Lake district. Dr. Frank's production in 2007 under his son Fred approached 20,000 cases and appears on upscale restaurant wine lists in New York City.
Australia has found a happy home for Riesling in Tasmania, where bone-dry is the standard. Australia's wine-show system is intolerant of the off-dry product.
California's major producer of Riesling, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, severed his Pacific Rim label from the winery's other products and opened a 200,000 case winery in Washington State devoted exclusively to Riesling production. His first vintage produced 130,000 cases of very good product at very competitive prices.
Washington State has always enjoyed first place honors for Chateau Ste.-Michelle's Eroica Riesling, which many wine critics have long regarded as among the finest Rieslings outside of Germany and Alsace.
Alsace still holds the lead, however. In the 11th Annual International Riesling Competition held last January in Strasbourg, Alsace, nine trophies were awarded. Five of these went to Alsatian producers. And of 124 gold medals, Alsatian producers took 77. Alsace has long been the leader in dry Rieslings. Germany is better known for the sweeter versions—Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese. Alsace produces its own version of Beerenauslese Riesling, known as Sélection de Grains Nobles, made from Botrytised fruit.
We're happy to introduce you to two excellent California examples of where these two varieties seem to be headed:
2007 Clos du Bois Riesling California; 12% alc., $12
Very light straw color. Aromas of pear and quince. Made in a Kabinett style with balanced acidity, giving it a pleasant lemony finish. No trace of Riesling's typical petrol note. Clean and refreshing, it's low alcohol makes this wine a fine warm weather sipper and an excellent accompaniment to Asian dishes as well as German foods and pork dishes in particular. Recommended.
2007 Pietra Santa Gewürztraminer Central Coast; 15.1% alc., $15
Very light straw color. Unmistakable varietal nose of lychee, papaya and pineapple. Delicately sweet on the palate, but finishes dry. A delicious, light Gewürztraminer made in a crisp, refreshing style. A great complement to Thanksgiving dinner. Recommended
