Finally, Sauvignon Blanc is moving up the ladder of respectability after playing second fiddle to Chardonnay for decades. Our tasting panel selected five outstanding examples of what today's wineries are doing with this classic grape variety. Typical Sauvignons show a characteristic herbaceousness not unlike Cabernet Sauvignon. Not at all surprising, since Sauvignon Blanc, along with Cabernet Franc, is known to be a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. The spectrum of style in Sauvignons is probably greater than any other white grape, including Riesling. We would have liked to include the notable Dry Creek Sauvignons of David Stare and the iconic Mondavi Fumé Blanc. We chose wines that we believe represent the huge spectrum of style that this wonderful grape allows.
The French Sauvignon Blanc Models
The eastern Loire valley is considered by many to be the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc—the place where this grape finds its purest expression. But most wine lovers are more familiar with the more expensive Sauvignons of Bordeaux (Graves, Pessac-Leognan). The Loire Sauvignons, notably from Pouilly and Sancerre are the prototypes of New World Sauvignons. These, up to the 1980s, were largely refreshing, racy wines fermented in stainless steel to preserve the natural qualities of the fruit. They represented the style of Sauvignon that was widely imitated throughout the New World.
In contrast to the Loire Sauvignons, the white Bordeaux Sauvignons were made to express the skill of the winemaker rather than the natural flavor profile of the grape. They are beautifully crafted wines with a judicious oak influence. They make up for their loss of raciness by expressing their elegance and balance. We tasted an iconic example of the Bordeaux style:
2005 Blanc de Lynch-Bages; 12.5% alc., $54. Supremely balanced, elegant and understated. A perfect complement to a wide range of delicate foods and apértifs. A good choice for oysters on the half shell or caviar, should one wish to forego the traditional vodka.
New World Stylistic Contributions Inspire the French to Change
New Zealand winemakers built on the Loire style by introducing new approaches, such as multiple pickings at various stages of ripeness and maturing in oak. Cloudy Bay offers an outstanding example of this inventive style. The vignerons of Sancerre were greatly impressed by the advances made in New Zealand and began adopting some of their techniques. So the Sancerre of today is more complex and fully flavored than those of the past. They are also among the best values in Sauvignon Blanc to be found anywhere.
2005 Domaine Daulny Sancerre Clos do Chaudenay; 13% alc., $18. A superb Sancerre, fully expressive of the characteristic varietal aromas and flavors: herbs, gooseberry, citrus. At its price point, enthusiastically recommended.
New Zealand Sauvignons aside, we think some of finest varietal examples in the New World are coming from wineries especially devoted to this grape. Dry Creek in California's Sonoma County is a clear example. Another is the range of wonderful Sauvignons from Santa Barbara County's Brander Winery.
2005 Brander Sauvignon Blanc Purisima Mountain; 13.5% alc., $22. Simply put, the Brander single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc from Purisima Mountain is one of the finest and most compelling examples of pure, varietal Sauvignon we've tasted. Fresh, crisp, racy, but not overly acidic, this wine provides a wonderful complement to chicken and veal dishes as well as a wide range of vegetarian entrées. Highly recommended.
New World Style Sauvignons
Back in the days when Sauvignon Blancs languished unsold on store shelves, Robert Mondavi entertained the thought that all the wines really needed were good examples and a name change. Inspired by the Loire Sauvignons of Pouilly-Fumé, he named his new example Fumé Blanc, therby igniting the rocket that lifted this varietal to its present prominence.
Ferrari-Carano offers one of the most dependable examples of the style of Sauvignon that is most widely favored by Americans. Crafted in stainless steel and older oak, this style of Sauvignon bridges the chasm between the lively Sauvignons of Sancerre or New Zealand and the richer unoaked Chardonnays or white Burgundies.
2006 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc Sonoma County; 13.9% alc., $17. Thanks to its blend of multiple sources and the use of both stainless steel and neutral oak, this is a complex Sauvignon with some tropical fruit notes not often found in this varietal. Rich and creamy, Ferrari-Carano's Fumé Blanc is a quality Sauvignon at a very affordable price. Highly recommended.
A California Sauvignon Returns to Its Roots
Finally, we would like to acquaint our readers with a very different example of New World Sauvignon, offered by Sonoma County's Roshambo Winery.
2005 Roshambo Sauvignon Blanc "The Obvious" Sonoma County; 13.7% alc., $17. Gold medal winner at the 2006 Sonoma County Harvest Fair, this Sauvignon harks back to older styled wines from Bordeaux. That is to say, a gentle, elegant, understated European-styled Sauvignon and provides a wonderful partner for a wide range of delicate foods. Sparkling clear and very light color, it's reminiscent of a Brut Champagne without bubbles. Very clean nose of melon, pear, and Myer lemon, Roshambo's Sauvignon has aromatics more like Pinot Grigio than typical Sauvignon, but with the crisp acidity of a Muscadet. We recommend this wine to those who like white wines that are light, crisp, and refreshing, rather than intense and mouth-filling. Highly recommended.
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