Chilled Wines for Summer Dishes

It's unofficially Summer with the passing of Memorial Day in the U.S. and thoughts turn to warm weather and outdoor eating. A typical Fathers Day might feature special foods and wines. Possibly an outdoor barbecue over which dad might preside. So we'll focus on wines that might please dad and inaugurate the Summer season.

CAMPARI KIR -A NEW APÉRTIF. I think we might have invented this one and I expect to find out soon after this article is published. This lovely apértif cocktail is not only appropriate for summer occasions; it provides an elegant and different prelude to any special occasion. It's pictured above and here's the recipe:

1 glass Champagne or other sparkling white wine

1/2 ounce Campari (or to taste)

Maraschino cherry for garnish, if desired.

That's it. Campari

is Italy's most popular apértif, usually enjoyed straight up, with soda, or in various cocktails. Our Campari Kir is pleasingly bittersweet and bubbly. Positively festive.

OUTDOOR SUMMER WINES. Really serious and complex wines are wasted in typical outdoor festive social occasions, particularly where the guests may not be paying close attention to what they are drinking. So we recommend wines that make a clear and simple statement, not those whose glories unfold over time after swirling and sniffing.

If you live in a warm climate, chilled dry white wines are always a welcome libation. Think about cold Pinot Grigio, unoaked Chardonnay, or Sauvignon Blanc. If your taste runs more towards the exotic, try Viognier or Roussanne.

CONSIDER ROSÉ WINES. Rosé wines got a bad rap right out of the starting gate when Gallo and Italian Swiss Colony introduced their Grenache Rosé wines back in the 50s. Rosés of that period were overly sweet and uncomplicated. Their popularity faded among all serious wine drinkers.

A second blow came with the accidental invention of White Zinfandel at Sutter Home Winery in California's Napa Valley. This sweet, light, monodimensional wine took the general public by storm and soon the most apparent color in every supermarket wine aisle was pink.

Today's rosé wines are a new breed. Yes, you can still easily find White Zin, but drier and more complex pink wines are beginning to show that the world of fine wine is no longer just red and and white. One of our favorite is Hortus Rose 2004; $10.99 from France's Languedoc region. It's a dry and evocative blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah with bracing acidity that makes it a wonderful accompaniment to a wide spectrum of foods.

We are especially impressed with L'Aventure's Rose 2005, a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah. It's fuller bodied and more flavorful than most rosé wines and well worth it's $15 price. All the L'Aventure wines are first rate and we heartily recommend them all.

REDS FOR THE BARBECUE. For any grilled meats you can't go wrong with a good California Zinfandel. Zins are full-bodied, uncomplicated, delicious and mouth filling wines that don't require a library environment to parse.

Our recent article on Australian Wines reviewed a very good Australian Zinfandel widely available online. Moving up a step or two, we particularly recommend Ravenswood Zinfandel Teldeschi and Ravenswood Zinfandel Monte Rosso, both $24.99. Even juicier is the Rosenblum Zinfandel Lyons Reserve, $35, but it may be hard to find. All these wines have been officially rated in the mid-90s and are excellent values.

Truth be told, you won't go wrong with any Zinfandel from Ravenswood, Rosenblum, Ridge, or Seghesio, but keep in mind that these producers (Ridge exempted) offer a generic appellation Zinfandel (California, Sonoma County, etc.) at attractive prices aimed at wider markets.

CHILLED REDS It may sound like heresy to you, but some red wines are actually better chilled. All red wines should be served at or slightly below cool room temperature, so a few minutes in the fridge might actually be in order in your ambient temperature is above about 75°. Chilling masks a wine's flaws, so if you are serving a jug red, go ahead and put a little chill on it. It will taste better. Jug reds may be served in small tumblers since they have little or no aroma to celebrate. And don't forget the checkered tablecloth!

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