Great California Chenin Blanc
California White Rises to New Quality Heights
Chenin Blanc, the great varietal from France's Loire Valley, was once the mainstay of major California wineries such as Charles Krug and Wente. The rise of California Chardonnay eclipsed the popularity of Chenin Blanc and many of the best Chenin Blanc vineyards were budded over to other, more profitable varieties.
But California wineries never gave up on Chenin. Today there's more Chenin in California vineyards than in all of France. There's also more in South Africa, where it's widely known as Steen and occupies around 30% of all the country's vineyard area. In California Chenin was largely relegated to the hot Central Valley vineyards and used to prop up less acidic varieties such as Thompson Seedless and French Colombard for use in cheap jug wines. Chenin also played a leading role in many popular proprietary wines on the low end of the quality scale. We estimate that as much as 95% of California Chenin is cropped at around 10 tons per acre compared to the 1-3 tons per acre associated with fine wine.
California Chenin's Bright Promise
If you're old enough to remember the popular American Chenins of the 1960s, you will be startled by the recent rise in quality. Several wineries have devoted their efforts specifically to making Chenin that stands shoulder to shoulder with fine French Vouvray. We decided to give some of them a blind test. Our comparison wine was an excellent Vouvray from Marc Brédif ($17.50). We found four California examples that, while displaying many individual characteristics, were fundamentally indistinguishable from the French example.
Clarksburg: A New AVA for California Chenin
First, some new developments. In 1984 a new American Viticultural Area (AVA) was created at Clarksburg, southwest of Sacramento. This small portion of the Sacramento Delta area provides a uniquely suitable site for Chenin and Petite Sirah. 90% of the Chenin produced here is shipped to top quality wineries in Napa and Sonoma counties and many winemakers are looking to Clarksburg for the best Chenin fruit in California.
The Results
We threw in two South African examples (Mulderbosch, $14; and Ken Forrester, $13). All the California Chenins outperformed their South Africa counterparts by an average margin of two points on the 100 point scale. All the California Chenins tasted were rated as excellent to outstanding.
2007 Lucas and Lewellen Chenin Blanc Santa Barbara County; 13.7% alc., $18
A stunning Chenin from a region not known for this varietal. One of our tasters declared that she would buy this wine at any price. Clean and refreshing, with an exotic nose of citrus and pear. Brighter than typical Pinot Grigios and more refreshing than most comparably priced Chardonnays, the Lucas and Lewellen Chenin Blanc provides a superb complement to light food courses such as fish and shellfish. It's one of the few wines we would recommend for salad courses. Highly Recommended.
2006 Dry Creek Vyd Dry Chenin Blanc Clarksburg; 12.5% alc., $14
One of the finest New World Chenin Blancs we've tasted. Perfect balance between a round body and bright (but not too bright) acidity. A great Chenin from the Clarksburg AVA made by a winery that has for decades specialized in Sauvignon Blanc. Considered one of Dry Creek's Signature Wines and very attractively priced for a wine of this quality. Very highly Recommended.
2004 Ehrhardt Estates Chenin Blanc Clarksburg; 13% alc., $12
Another stunning Chenin from Clarksburg. This wine garnered a score of 98 points in the California State Fair Wine Competition and earned Double Gold, Best of Class in Region and Best of Region. A very versatile wine, it pairs with a wide spectrum of foods ranging from apértif courses to light desserts. Wonderfully complex in aromatics and flavors, it has a slightly honeyed aspect on the palate and a bright, refreshing finish. This Chenin was made by legendary Herzog winemaker, Joe Hurliman. The Ehrhardt Estates Chenin Blanc Clarksburg may be the best value in high quality Chenin Blanc anywhere in the world. Highly Recommended.
2007 Casa Nuestra Dry Chenin Blanc Home Vyd Napa Valley; 13.9% alc., $24
A very aromatic wine displaying alluring scents and flavors of melon, pear and honey. Round and dry on the palate with a delightfully bright finish. From an historic Oakville vineyard in Napa Valley, is surrounded by some of Napa Valley's most expensive vineyard properties planted mostly to Cabernet Sauvignon. We commend Casa Nuestra for maintaining this vineyard for much less lucrative Chenin. Casa Nuestra's Chenin Blanc is, simply put, a world class product on a par with the best Chenins of Vouvray. It's a more useful food complement than either Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay or Riesling and should be a staple of every wine cellar. Chenin Blanc is one of the most ageworthy of white wines and this one should evolve interestingly over the next ten or more years. Very Highly Recommended.
What do you think about this article?
Comments
More in Food & Drink
Latest Articles