Do grapes grown at higher altitudes yield a different kind of wine?
When we think of Napa Valley, most of us probably call to mind a lush wide valley carpeted with vineyards. But there are really three Napa Valleys, geologically speaking. The valley floor is home to most of the better known wineries. Rising to the east above the northern Silverado Trail are the high altitude vineyards of Atlas Peak and Howell Hountain. And extending from Los Carneros northwest to Oakville are the Mayacamas mountains. All three regions produce wines indicative of their specialized terroir.
The Mayacamas mountain AVAs are comprised of very small, often family-operated, wineries peopled by stubborn, indefatigable souls who labor on steep, rocky slopes that defy every form of mechanization.
Recently Uncorked Events held a trade tasting devoted to high altitude Mayacamas mountain wines encompassing the three designated American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in the region.
Mt. Veeder AVA
The most southerly AVA in the Mayacamas, Mt. Veeder, consists largely of very thin volcanic ash soils overlaying very hard bedrock. Some of the vineyards here are planted on steep slopes—up to 50*! Such vineyards are planted with great difficulty. One winery here found it necessary to create plugs in the bedrock using dynamite in order to allow the vines to send down a stable root system. But when those roots reached the bottom of the prepared hole they grew back into the topsoil, so impenetrable is that bedrock.
Wines from this 25 square mile appellation are intense, displaying wild blackberry and briary flavors along with mint and herbal notes. This is Cabernet Sauvignon territory, but there's some Chardonnay, Merlot, and even a bit of excellent Zinfandel (Chateau Potelle). The Lagier-Meredith vineyard, located inside the crater of an ancient volcano, produces some of Napa Valleys finest Syrah.
The Mt. Veeder AVA wineries include Brandlin, The Hess Collection, Chateau Potelle, Meadowcroft, Vinoce, Paras, Robert Craig, Sage, Yates Family Vineyard, Rubissow-Sargent, Mount Veeder Winery, Lokoya, Lagier-Meredith, Mayacamas, Sky, Random Ridge, Cuvaison, Godspeed, Hendry and others.
Spring Mountain AVA
The Spring Mountain AVA rises in the mountains west of St. Helena and is home to several well known wineries. The vineyard elevations here are around 400 to 2,600 feet. Originally home to some of Napa Valley's finest Chardonnay (Spring Mountain), the region is now largely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, and Pinot Noir.
Wines from this appellation display a certain grace and elegance in contrast to the more powerful, muscular wines of Mt. Veeder.
Spring Mountain's history may be among the oldest in Napa Valley. The Beringer brothers planted here in 1874 and Spring Mountain wines were winning World's Fair gold medals by 1873. Today's resident wineries include Barnett, Cain, Fantesca Estate, Frias Family, Fife, Guilliams Vineyards, Keenan, Marston Family, Newton, Peacock Family, Pride Mountain, Schweiger, Sherwin Family, Smith-Madrone, Spring Mountain, Terra Vineyard, Stony Hill, Philip Togni and others.
Diamond Mountain AVA
The Diamond Mountain AVA is one of Napa Valley's most celebrated regions. This is home to some of Napa Valley's most distinguished Cabernet Sauvignons. The soils here are strictly volcanic and deeper than Mt. Veeder. The AVA is also considerably warmer, producing wines that are deeper with flavor profiles of plum, black cherry, anise and chocolate.
Wineries of the Diamond Mountain AVA include Andrew Geoffrey, Coho, Diamond Terrace, Diamond Creek, Dyer, Graeser, J. Davies, Martin Ray, Reverie on Diamond Mountain, and Von Strasser.
