The American wine industry was started by Italian immigrants. Not wealthy Tuscan or Piemontese winemakers seeking to expand their lines of luxury products, but largely poor Italian immigrants looking for a better life in the New World.
Lured by rags-to-riches stories and myths about gold in California rivers, many of these tired and poor settled in California’s Central Valley. Wine was a necessary complement to every meal, so cuttings were brought in anticipation of planting vineyards.
At first, the major winemaking effort sought to replicate the rough-edged red wines familiar to the Italian working class. No effort was made to attempt to make wine from the noble Italian varietals, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, or even lesser grapes of distinction such as Barbera or Nero d’Avolo.
Most of these early pre-Prohibition era efforts were blends involving Zinfandel (which the early Italian vintners found remarkably similar to their Primitivo), Alicante Bouchet, and Carignane, a hybrid made from the Carnelian grape and developed in California’s Central Valley.
Although there was a smattering of German and French winemakers in the early days of California’s wine industry, the overwhelming majority were Italians with names such as Petri, Mondavi, Gallo, Rossi, Sebastiani, Martini, Paterno, Franzia and Cribari. These early Italian immigrants founded wineries that were to become among the largest in the world.
It always seemed odd that even after several generations, these family-owned wineries continued to focus on everyday blended table wines rather than the distinguished wines of Tuscany, Piedmont and the Veneto.
The earliest commercial offerings of varietal Italian wine appeared in the 1960s when Sebastiani and Martini offered competing examples of Barbera and gained a loyal following. During this time, west coast wine retailers began offering limited imports of Italian wines, but they did not gain widespread appeal until after the Rhône craze of the 1980s.
While it is true that a few of the larger producers offered California wines labeled Chianti, these wines bore little resemblance to the real thing. That would have to wait for successful plantings of Sangiovese, which would become California’s most successful red Italian varietal.
In the 1990s about two dozen California wineries struggled to produce an acceptable Nebbiolo, the noble grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, but it was slow to attract the attention of the general consumer.
Today there are dozens of California wineries devoted specifically to Italian varietals and Italian-styled wines. We’ve previously reported on the Pietra Santa Winery in the Cienega Valley. And now we will introduce some of the wines of the Domenico Winery in San Carlos, south of San Francisco.
2005 Domenico Malvasia Bianca California; 14.4% alc., $26
Light straw color. Excellent varietal aromas and flavors of pear, papaya, lemon peel, honey, bitter almond and fragrant rose petals. Light on the palate, the Domenico Malvasia Bianca is crisp and refreshing with a slightly honeyed finish. An infusion of 24% Amador County Chardonnay adds body and complexity. Malvasia is Italy’s most widely consumed white wine and we’ve always wondered why it hasn’t attracted a larger following in the New World. Perhaps its flavor profile is too robust; or perhaps consumers found early examples too sweet to complement most foods. We would suggest pairing Domenico Malvasia Bianca with veal scaloppini or fully flavored shellfish dishes. Recommended.
2004 Domenico Nebbiolo Amador County; 15.3% alc., $26
Medium garnet color, dark for a Nebbiolo. Effulgent spicy nose of cinnamon, clove, licorice, leather and dried cherry. Rich flavors follow with deep fruit and a bone dry finish with light tannins adding a pleasant textural element. This unique wine is unlike every other California Nebbiolo we have tasted: Richer, deeper flavors, spicier, fuller bodied and less tannic. This Nebbiolo stands out from the pack. Pair it with the heartiest of meat dishes. Wild boar comes immediately to mind. Recommended.
2004 Domenico Miscela Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon; 14.5% alc., $35
Very deep ruby color and richly textured in the glass. Classic Bordeaux-like nose of cigar box, spice, leather and dried cherries. Flavors of ripe plum and mint follow. A masculine wine with broad and delicious flavors, bright acids and moderate tannins. Long, satisfying finish. A well-structured wine with very good balance. Strong intensity of fruit with excellent mouthfeel and viscosity. Napa Valley Cabernets are a bargain at this price. Recommended.
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