Tasting Old & New World Merlots
2005 Owen Roe Merlot Yakima Valley DuBrul Vineyard and More
Jan 7, 2008
Merlot vs. Other Red Grapes
For decades New World Merlot has taken a back seat to other more dependable varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Pinot Noir. It took decades of trial and error to unlock the secrets of Pinot Noir. We finally learned about the importance of clonal varieties and vineyard location. Today it's hard to find a poorly made New World Pinot Noir, whether from California or New Zealand or Canada. We now know exactly how to deal with this finicky grape.
Cabernet Sauvignon offered a much easier learning curve and outstanding examples of New World Cabernet have been around since the years just after the repeal of Prohibition, led by the memorable examples from Inglenook and Beaulieu Vineyards, both in Napa Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon, we learned, can be grown in a wide spectrum of warmish locations and in a wide spectrum of soil types. As a result, fine Cabernet Sauvignon is produced in all but the coldest winegrowing regions of the world. Expect to see one from China sometime soon.
Merlot is another matter. The French prototypes from St. Emilion and Pomerol are among the most expensive red wines in the world. Current releases of Chateau Pétrus command prices around $1,300 a bottle, when available. Robert Parker rates the 1994 Pétrus at 93 points. You don't care to shell out $1,300 for a top Merlot? You're in luck. Also rated by Parker at 93 points is Owen Roe's DuBrul Vineyard Merlot from Yakima Valley, Washington. And it's a spectacular value at $45. Unfortunately, it's on its way to cult status and only 300 cases were made in the current release. See tasting note below.
What have we learned that has allowed New World wineries to catch up to the right bank (St. Emilion and Pomerol)? We may not have the full picture, as we appear to have with Pinot Noir. But we do know that, unlike its big brother Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot is pickly about the vineyard location and most likely the soil composition, too. But certain microclimates in Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Walla Walla (WA), Yakima (WA), as well as Italy and Israel are regular producers of Merlot that compete quite handily with the best of France.
Why seek out an expensive Merlot when there are so many fine Cabernet Sauvignons to choose from?
The main attraction of Merlot is that it sports a flavor profile similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, but with much more agreeable tannins. Merlots can be enjoyed just a few years after the vintage, while Cabernet Sauvignons of similar quality need from 5 to 20 years to mature.
New World Merlots have received a "bad rap" in recent years because they were, admittedly, mediocre. Mid-priced New World Merlots still are, largely. This, because the vines were probably planted in the wrong places and haven't been replaced with more suitable varieties. The best New World Merlots are usually products of small wineries or at least second lables devoted to Merlot. You probably won't find anything exciting in the under-$30 range just yet. But here are some noteworthy examples (see our previous review of Twomey Merlot also):
2002 DOVEV Single Vineyard Merlot Galil; 14% alc., $30
This outstanding Merlot from Israel is a dead ringer for a St. Emilion. Bordeaux-like nose of cedar and cigar box along with dried herbs. Lean and complex with nicely resolved tannins. Tears beautifully in the glass. A classy French-styled Merlot. Highly recommended.
2005 OWEN ROE Merlot Yakima Valley DuBrul Vineyard; 14.2% alc., $45
Aromatics need time to open up, possibly overnight. Prominent nose of white chocolate, smoke and red raspberries. Absolutely explosive on the palate with deep, rich, jammy fruit. A concentrated wine with moderate tannins that should resolve over the next few years. Fabulous mouthfeel and texture in the glass. Everything one could hope for in a Merlot. Very highly recommended.
2004 Villa Russiz Merlot Collio Graf de La Tour; 14% alc., $35
From Italy's Friuli region. Dark color, brooding nose with some sulfur aromas that disappeared over time. Core of solid fruit with notes of candied cherry and raspberry. Moderately high tannins for a Merlot. Nevertheless, a very delicious and satisfying wine. The vines are claimed to have originated from grafts taken from Bordeaux's Chateau Latour.
2004 Avignonesi Desiderio Merlot Contona (Tuscany); 13.5% alc., $39
A classic Italian Merlot from Tuscany. Medium color, delicate nose with notes of pencil shavings, spice and orange peel. Bright on the palate in the Italian style. Chewy, moderate tannins. A delicious and richly flavored Merlot. Highly recommended.
 |
