They’re all over the map. All feature great forward fruit, but that’s where similarities pretty much end. Very few wineries are offering moderate alcohol, food-friendly versions, but there are strong regional differences. Lodi Zins tend to be round and somewhat soft. The few Napa Valley Zins that exist offer excellent balance and elegance. Paso Robles Zins are full-bodied and peppery. Sonoma County is home to most of the most distinguished examples, but the best come from sub-appellations such as Sonoma Valley, Russian River Valley, Dry Creek, and Rockpile. The Sonoma County appellation is just a notch above the more generic California appellation.
Here is a sampling of some of the interesting current offerings:
2006 Earthquake Zinfandel Lodi; 15.5% alc., $28
This reserve Zinfandel from Lodi’s Michael David Winery is named after the San Francisco earthquake of 1906, the time when Lodi’s old vine Zinfandel vines were planted. Deep ruby color. Generous nose of spicy ripe plum and black raspberries. A rich and bold Zinfandel with velvet tannins and mouth-filling flavors. An excellent example of Lodi appellation Zinfandels. Recommended.
2006 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Sonoma Heritage Vines Sonoma County; 15% alc., $18
A well-crafted Zinfandel from a producer who specializes in this variety. Sonoma County is home to many of the finest Zinfandels and this wine is typical of Sonoma County Zins. Bright and lively in aromatics with both fruity and earthy notes, this wine sings on the palate with refreshing flavors of plums and red fruits. Not over-extracted, Rancho Zabaco Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel is beautifully balanced. Rich, but not overstated. A fine Zinfandel at a terrific price. Recommended.
2007 7 Deadly Zins Lodi; 14.5% alc., $16
Candied, very spicy nose of juicy ripe plums and bright pomegranate against a background of milk chocolate. Rich flavor profile without being overbearing. A complex wine, thanks to seven vineyard sources and small amounts of Petite Sirah, known for its full body, and Petit Verdot, known for its spicy aromatics. Not terroir-driven like many expensive single-vineyard Zins, 7 Deadly Zins is a completely satisfying complex and delicious blended Zinfandel at a bargain basement price. Highly recommended at its price point. www.MichaelDavidWinery.com
2006 Windmill Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi; 14.5% alc., $12
Warm, plummy nose with moderate aromatics. A solidly made Zinfandel with fine balance, smooth tannins, and mouth-filling varietal flavors of dark cherries and ripe dark plums. Beautiful texture in the glass. A fresh tasting, fruit-driven Zin at a very attractive price. Recommended. www.lodivineyards.com
2006 Benovia Zinfandel Sonoma County; 15.8% alcohol
Attractive clear dark ruby color. Blackberries and warm spices inform a moderately aromatic nose. First impression on the palate is of unresolved tannins followed by dark, sweet fruit. This is an over-the-top “monster”-type Zin made from the ripest fruit and possessing an alcohol level approaching 16%. Highly reminiscent of the over-zealous attempts of the 1960s that ultimately led to the decline of red Zinfandel. www.benoviawinery.com
2006 Tres Sabores Zinfandel Rutherford Napa Valley; 14.6% alcohol, $35
Very clean aromas of blackberries and white pepper and lovely visual texture. Unusually light on the palate for a Zin of this strength and very well balanced. Not at all overpowering, the Tres Sabores Rutherford Zinfandel provides an attractive match for many foods that are commonly paired with Pinot Noir. The Rutherford Bench is home to some of the costliest vineyard land in the world and fruit from this region is necessarily expensive. The small amount of Zinfandel fruit from Rutherford yields some of the most elegant, food-friendly Zinfandels in the world and this wine is a fine example. Recommended. www.tressabores.com
