In Germany and Alsace, Rieslings range from bone dry Chablis-like wines to super-sweet brilliantly balanced dessert wines, with everything in between. They have been regarded for centuries as one of the world’s finest white wines. Like Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, Riesling’s growing requirements are very specific and while decent examples are found worldwide, the German and Alsatian Rieslings are in a class apart. A side benefit is that the Rieslings from the Rhine and Mosel valleys are very low in alcohol, sometimes as low as 9%.
Traditional Rieslings are classified according to their sweetness levels. The sweeter the wine, the more expensive. Only in the past few decades have Germans embraced dry versions. These are labelled trocken. Off-dry Rieslings are halb-trocken. Today an increasing number of German Rieslings are vinted as dry wine.
New World Rieslings have, until recently, been disappointing, fairly monodimensional flabby wines. And most still fit that description. But a few bright lights are beginning to illuminate this dark scenario. In this article we hope to introduce you to some of the better New World efforts—those that stand apart from the pack. Not only are these wines beautifully made and delicious. They are among the best values in New World wine.
2007 Ch. Ste Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley Indian Wells; 11.5% alc., $11.99
Very fresh aromas of white peach and lychee. Slight spritz of carbon dioxide quickly dissipates. Clean drinking with no suggestion of Riesling’s typical petrol note. Faintly bitter on the finish, but not unpleasantly so. Sweetness lingers on the finish. Moderately sweet but not cloying. Pair with poultry dishes in fruit sauces or fruit-based desserts.
2006 Waipara Springs Premo Riesling Waipara New Zealand; 10.5% alc., $20.99
Made with 10% botrytised grapes, this wine has an unmistakeable varietal Riesling nose of white peach, citrus, and lemon zest with a note of petrol. Nicely balanced with welcome brightness suggestive of lemon-lime on the palate. Finish follows the flavor profile. Made in a Spätlese style, the Waipara Riesling is remarkably refreshing. Recommended.
2008 Barnard Griffin Riesling Columbia Valley; 11.7% alc., $14
Superb Riesling. Pure varietal nose of lychee and honeysuckle. Very clean drinking with excellent acid balance and a long finish. Medium-bodied style is in between a typical kabinett and spätlese. Recommended.
2007 Ch. Ste Michelle Riesling “Eroica” Columbia Valley; 12% alc., $22.99
This joint effort of Ch. Ste Michelle and Dr. Loosen of Germany’s Mosel region is the gold standard of New World Rieslings. This is as good as it gets outside of Germany and Alsace. Delicate nose of Meyer lemon chiffon with very slight varietal petrol note. Rich body and perfect balance. Highly recommended.
2007 Gainey Riesling Santa Ynez Valley; 12.3% alc., $12.37
Attractive aromas of unripe peach and lemon with only the faintest trace of petrol and smoke. A gentle, refreshing, well-crafted, off-dry wine. Always one of California’s better examples and priced attractively.
2007 Waipara Springs Premo Dry Riesling Waipara New Zealand; 12.5% alc., $20.99
Distinctive nose of citrus and some petrol. A complex, carefully structured wine with flavors of grapefruit and honey, balanced with bright acidity. A bold, but elegant wine with the style we have come to associate with New Zealand whites. Recommended.
2007 Waipara Springs Riesling Waipara New Zealand; 10.5% alc., $16.99
Very pale straw color with good varietal nose of honeyed white peach and a touch of petrol which does not extend to the flavor profile. Excellent acidity makes this a particularly refreshing wine and a very good complement to a wide range of light foods. Its very low alcohol level makes it a perfect warm weather sipping wine. Recommended.
The next article will be devoted to the products of a single Washington State winery specializing in Riesling and offering a full spectrum of exciting wines.
