Pacific Rim is unique among American wineries. First, it’s the product of evolution. About 15 years ago Randall Grahm’s quirky Bonny Doon winery in California’s Santa Cruz mountains introduced a dry Riesling at a time when the overwhelming public appetite was turning to oaky Chardonnays. He called his wine Pacific Rim Dry Riesling and put a geisha on the label that underscored the wine’s affinity for Asian foods, also on the ascendency. The wine was so successful that it spawned a new winery in Washington State devoted almost entirely to the production of Riesling.
The Pacific Rim Winery, now in its second year of operation, is dedicated to sustainable viticulture and is currently the only Washington State winery with a Demeter certified biodynamic wine. Biodynamic viticulture is necessarily labor intensive but once the fruit reaches the winery, it’s largely a hands-off operation that allows nature to shepherd the carefully grown fruit to its final destination.
While there are a number of very fine Washington State Rieslings, Pacific Rim offers a full spectrum of Rieslings: dry, off-dry, sweet, organic, single vineyard, biodynamic, and even a Vin de Glacier Riesling that mimics the great ice wines of Germany. Each is quite distinctive.
We expect the Pacific Rim Winery to reacquaint American wine lovers with this noble variety that has suffered so long from mediocre New World examples and an ocean of bad press. And as palates continue to tire of heavy, overstated and over-manipulated Chardonnay, racy Rieslings from wineries like Pacific Rim will be waiting in the wings.
2007 Pacific Rim Dry Riesling Columbia Valley; 12.5% alc., $10.99
Fresh honeyed nose of citrus and pear with no apparent trace of petrol. Pacific Rim Dry Riesling is a blend of 15% Mosel Riesling (Germany) and 85% Columbia Valley Riesling. The result is a very refreshing, bright wine with a citrus edge that most New World Rieslings lack. At $10.99 it’s a wonderful value. Recommended.
2007 Pacific Rim Riesling Wallula Vineyard Columbia Valley Biodynamic Demeter Certified; 13% alc., $32
Very pale straw color. Subtle but very complex, layered aromas of jasmine, apricot, and lychee, with mineral notes. This wine represents a new dimension in New World Rieslings. Its alcohol level of 13% puts it in the company of typical New World varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Chenin Blanc. It’s a bold wine with superb acid balance and rich fruit flavors that will pair well with substantial dishes of poultry and sauced fish. There's no better wine to accompany a traditional Thanksgiving dinner due to its bright, citrusy flavors and forward fruit. One of the finest New World Rieslings we’ve tasted! Highly Recommended.
2008 Pacific Rim Organic Riesling Columbia Valley; 10.5% alc., $16
Very pale straw color, this beautiful Riesling is certified organic, fermented with native yeasts. Delicate aromas of green apple, pear and orange blossom lead to rich citrus flavors with vibrant acidity and a long finish. Slightly off-dry but fresh tasting. Recommended.
2008 Pacific Rim Sweet Riesling Columbia Valley; 8.5% alc., $10.99
Delicate color and nose of apricot and lemon custard with a touch of lychee. Floral, rather than mineral or petrol notes. Very low alcohol level and excellent acid balance make this very sweet wine refreshing and not at all cloying. Suggested food pairings are Caribbean and Szechwan dishes. Caribbean, because this very fruit-driven wine will complement fruity meat dishes; Szechwan, because of the classic affinity of bright, sweet wines with highly spiced dishes. It would also pair very well with fresh fruit or fruit pastries. A very clean and well-balanced Riesling at the auslese level of sweetness. Recommended.
2007 Pacific Rim Riesling Vin de Glacière Columbia Valley Selenium Vineyard; 10.5% alc., $18/375ml
An ice wine analog, Vin de Glacière is made from ripe grapes that have been frozen and crushed in that state. The price of German eiswein begins roughly at twice the price of Vin de Glacière and rises to well above $100/375ml. Canadian examples are around $65. So this unusual wine is a comparative bargain. True varietal Riesling aromas and flavors inform this wine and, like all Pacific Rim Rieslings, the acid balance is very good. Very sweet (16% residual sugar) but not heavy or syrupy. Excellent accompaniment to blue-veined, strong soft-ripened or sharp Cheddar cheeses. Or lighten it up with a splash of soda water or sparking mineral water for a refreshing apértif or warm weather sipper. Recommended.
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