2003-4 Pinots vs French Burgundies

Foxen Santa Maria Valley, Cloudy Bay Marlborough, Patricia Green Cellars Estate and Rusack PN Santa Rita Hills Reserve from California, Oregon and New Zealand Compete with Comparable French Wines

May 16, 2006 Alan Boehmer

Reviews of three highly-rated red Burgundies and four New World Pinots, tasted blind.

In our previous article we highlighted some of the differences between New World Pinot Noir and its French counterpart, red Burgundy. We blind tasted three highly rated red Burgundies against Pinot Noirs from California, Oregon and New Zealand. Here are our findings:

As a control, we poured a mid-grade Pinot Noir unblind, 2004 Foxen Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley; 14.5% alc., $30. This is an excellent example of California style Pinot Noir. Earthy, peppery, mouthfilling black cherry fruit. Good body, rich and delicious. This was the wine to which the others were compared.

2003 Giroud Aloxe-Corton Les Guerets 1er Cru; 13% alc., $40 proved to be a textbook example of red Burgundy and a wonderful value, priced comparably to high end domestic Pinot Noirs. Bright on the palate, but richly flavored. Notes of cinnamon and cherry cola complement its ample fruit. Very aromatic and well balanced. Will improve over the next four or five years. We immediately identified this as red Burgundy. Highly recommended.

2004 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough; 14% alc., $39. Despite this New Zealand winery's stellar reputation for Sauvignon Blanc, their Pinot Noir did not fare quite as well when compared directly to top examples from California, Oregon, and France. It was clean drinking, pleasantly bright, medium bodied.

2003 Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites; 13% alc., $57. A complex but restrained example of red Burgundy. Good strawberry and red cherry fruit along with suggestions of lemon, mint, earth and white pepper. Medium body. This wine unfolded gradually over a two hour period and showed excellent aging potential.

>2000 Patricia Green Cellars Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill County, Oregon; 13% alc., $45. Generous aromas and rich flavors of dark cherry, mint, lavender, earth, spice and pepper. Velvet texture, long finish. A superb example of New World Pinot Noir, The Patricia Green Cellars Estate Pinot Noir outperformed red Burgundies rated as outstanding by the Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, and Stephen Tanzer. Very highly recommended and a good value.

>2003 Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru; 13.5% alc., $85. This splendid wine, rated as high as 95 by Robert Parker, should have provided a textbook example of great Pinot Noir. It might have done just that had it not been preceded by the stunning Pinot Noir from Patricia Green. Nevertheless, this beautifully crafted red Burgundy was lean in the French style, but very complex. Flowery cherry flavors were enhanced by notes of licorice, vanilla, and slate. It's intricate array of flavor components speaks clearly of a specific terroir which would be difficult to emulate elsewhere. Slight tannins suggest that it will continue to improve over the next several years. Highly recommended.

2004 Rusack PN Santa Rita Hills Reserve; 14.5% alc., $39. In the true California style, the Rusack Pinot Noir almost overwhelms with richly extracted deep fruit flavors. Very full body and mouth-filling.

The copyright of the article 2003-4 Pinots vs French Burgundies in New World Wine is owned by Alan Boehmer. Permission to republish 2003-4 Pinots vs French Burgundies in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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