France did it from the beginning. They outlawed naming the grape varieties used for Appellation Contrôlée wines. All the major wines were named after the specific appellation—Gevrey Chambertin, Muscadet de Sevres et Maine, Château Margaux.
U.S. laws provide much more flexibility. A winery can name its wine in any way it likes, but if it carries a varietal label (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, etc.) 75% of the wine must be made from the named variety. During the 1960s a movement led almost all U.S. wineries, especially in California, to name their wine after the principal variety. For years Beaulieu Vineyards wines carried a back label that boasted that their wine was 100% from the named variety. This practice more or less continues to the present day, not only in the U.S., but throughout the New World.
Lately U.S. wineries are beginning to embrace proprietary names that give no indication of the contents of the bottle. Sometimes the blend is listed on the front or back label, often not. So what are these proprietary wines and should we embrace them? At the high end, proprietary names are often used to avoid a morass of restrictions, as in Chianti. Many of the best wines of that region use proprietary names in order to incorporate disallowed varieties into their blended wines. So what might otherwise be called a Chianti Classico might appear as Sassicaia or some other fanciful name.
Why do Winemakers Choose to Blend Varieties?
At the high end they do it to add flavor, texture, or color to the base wine. All the great red wines of Bordeaux are proprietary blends, with almost no exceptions. California’s Opus One is a proprietary blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon. But what do winemakers do with leftover wine after their varietal program has been completed? Be sure they don’t throw it out. They may bottle small lots of leftover varietal wine for their cellar club. Or they may choose to blend the leftover wine together to create a “master winemaker’s blend.” Such blends are sometimes surprisingly successful and, when so, a winery may add that blend to its program and repeat it year after year. Such is the case with the wine reviewed below:
Sacred Stone Cask #004 Master’s Red Blend; 14.6% alcohol, $10
A proprietary blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, and Dolcetto. Sacred Stone is a serious wine at a very attractive price. Not surprising, since the winemaker is Italian, Sacred Stone has all the hallmarks of an Italian red wine—except for one: it’s much fuller and richer than typical Tuscan wines at the same price point. Very good aromas of unripe raspberries and tart cherries inform the nose. Bright, rich flavors burst on the palate. The winery suggests pairing Sacred Stone with a tri-tip sandwich or outdoor grilled meats. Pair it with any richly flavored Italian meat dish. It’s bright acidity and low tannins will complement tomato-based dishes as well. Recommended.
2006 Hearthstone “Profundo” Paso Robles; 15.2% alc., $30
This delicious proprietary blend from Pietra Santa Winery is a California version of Italy’s Sangiovese-based “supertuscans”—and offered at less than half the price. It’s deep ruby color and high viscosity are hallmarks of a deeply extracted, high alcohol wine. The aromatics suggest spicy cherry, white pepper, and clove. Profundo’s very rich, highly concentrated flavors suggest pairings of smoky grilled meats, strong cheeses, or dark chocolate. Recommended.
2006 Hearthstone “Lodestone” Paso Robles; 15% alc., $25
Clear ruby color. Very good aromatics of red raspberries, pomegranate and white pepper. This classic Rhone blend of 43% Syrah, 30.5% Grenache and 26.5% Mourvedre is pleasantly bright on the palate in contrast to many New World red Rhône blends and French Côtes-du-Rhônes that are weighty and dull. “Lodestone” is a refreshing red blend that dances on the palate and provides an excellent medium-bodied accompaniment to a wide range of classic dishes, especially veal, pork, and sauced meats. Recommended.
2007 ¿Porqué no? Red Wine Napa Valley; 14.5% alc., $25
¿Porqué no? is an unusual blend of 76% estate Zinfandel with classic Bordeaux varieties, plus a splash of Petite Sirah. The Petite Sirah is apparent in the deep, almost opaque ruby color. The aromatics of this wine are nothing less than stunning. Bright, spicy blackberry with a touch of white pepper explodes on the nose. On the palate it tastes for all the world like fermented blackberry juice. Highly unusual and distinctive, ¿Porqué no? is a refreshing change from the usual lineup of varietal red wines. A perfect complement to duck, pork, or any fruit-sauced meat dish. Recommended.
