In the interest of protecting their wines from fraud, most European countries modeled their labeling laws after the extremely restrictive French appellation contrôlée laws which specifiy required alcohol levels, place of origin and the varieties that may be used in blended wines. The European Union (EU) is currently attempting to streamline all the various national appellation of origin laws into a single set of regulations for its member countries.
American wine regulations adopted the general model of concentric appellations (i.e., America-California-North Coast-Sonoma County-Dry Creek), but rejected controls over which varieties may be planted and what varieties may be used in a proprietary blend. As a result, American winemakers have more latitude than their European counterparts in developing their blended wines.
Traditional Blends
A handful of red blends have achieved traditional status: the Bordeaux blend, the Rhône blend, the Rioja and Chianti blends, the Zinfandel/Petite Sirah blend. These are standard blends that appear year after year. Their formulas are fairly consistent except for the Rhône blend, particularly in New World versions. The basic varieties used are Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre, but in varying proportions. Often a small amount of other southern Rhône varieties, such as Counoise and Carignan are included. The inconsistency of New World Rhône blends gives each one an individual character.
One of the finest examples of a New World Rhône blend is Clautiere Vineyards' Estate Mon Beau Rouge. Intensely aromatic with medium ruby color. Complex nose of ripe Bing cherry, clove, cocoa, and white pepper. Delicious mouth-filling flavors that would provide stiff competition to a top Châteauneuf-du-Pape at less than half the price. A superb New World Rhône blend of 52% Syrah, 23% Counoise, 18% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre. Attractively priced at $29. Very highly recommended.
New Cutting-Edge Blends
One of the exciting new trends in blended red wines involves the blending of varieties that have never been combined in traditional winemaking. A 2006 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah by Caliza Winery was awarded 96 points by Robert Parker. RN Estate Vineyard & Winery offers a delicious blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. And Arroyo Robles Winery offers an exciting blend of Syrah, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah, and Merlot that is becoming the winery's flagship red wine. Kiamie Wine Cellars specializes in blended wines. Its top offering is its Kiamie Kuvée, composed of a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, and Zinfandel.
One of the most unusual red blends comes from Paso Robles' Lone Madrone Winery. It's 2006 Barfandel is composed of 53% Zinfandel, 26% Petite Sirah, and 21% Barbera. The nose on this wine shows cocoa and sour cherry. In the mouth are tastes of smoky oak, loganberry, chocolate and spice. This wine has great balance with chewy, soft tannins, backed up with beautiful acidity and a long, complex finish. It's priced at $45 and is highly recommended.
If you've never heard of any of these wineries, it's because they are all small producers who sell their products to local restaurants and through their tasting rooms, wine club lists, and through their websites. They represent a new and promising chapter in contemporary winemaking.
