Of all the "noble" varietals (there are about sixteen of them), Riesling is probably the last to find a happy home in the New World. With extensive plantings in cool regions of British Columbia, Australia, New Zealand, and the U.S., winegrowers had expected to produce competitive wines decades ago.
Why has it been so difficult for New World vintners to mimic the great Rieslings of Germany and Alsace? Are they on the right track? Are their products an improvement over past efforts?
We tasted Rieslings from Australia, Alsace, and the Rheingau region of Germany; all highly rated examples. What we found surprised us.
Like Burgunian Pinot Noir, which oftens displays a characteristic barnyard aroma in addition to its fruit components, Rieslings typically display an aroma of petrol or burned rubber. This is characteristic of even the finest bottlings and is found in every style of Riesling, from dry to very sweet. Like Burgundian barnyard aromas, it's usually an undertone that accompanies the more prominent peach and mineral aromas and flavors.
The 2004 Pikes Dry Riesling Clare Valley; 12% alc., $19 is thought by many to be one of Australia's best examples. We found it very heavy on the petrol and light on the charming fruit and mineral qualities that make Riesling so attractive.
Our example from Germany, 2004 Schloss Schönborn Riesling Kabinett Rheingau Erbacher Marcobrunn; 9.5% alc., $20 comes from one of Germany's most distinguished vineyards and represents plantings going back at least to the 15th century. True to style, this off-dry Riesling displayed deep and attractive flavors of apricot, peach, slate, and mineral, along with a noticeable undertone of burned rubber that carried over into the flavor slightly. If that particular characteristic doesn't bother you, you will enjoy this wine.
The Alsatian example, 2003 Domaine Ostertag Riesling Muenchberg Grand Cru pleased us the most. What appeared as petrol in the other examples seemed to resemble an attractive smoky citrus component, along with wonderful mineral and peach notes.
By far, the finest example of New World Riesling we have tasted comes from Washington State's Chateau Ste.-Michelle. A product of a seven year partnership between the American winery and Germany's Dr. Loosen, Eroica may well be the best Riesling produced in the New World. It is described by the winery as "an intermingling of Old World and New World philosophy" and is named after Beethoven's Third Symphony. Highly Recommended.
