Santa Lucia Highlands
Little Known California Appellation Showcases Stellar Wines.
Wine Artisans of Santa Lucia Highlands offers a sampling of their splendid wines to the media and public in San Francisco.
Perched high above California's Salinas Valley in the rugged Santa Lucia mountains, home to the spectacular Big Sur coast, lies one of America's most unusual winegrowing terroirs. A swath of vineyards about 40 miles long rests on high alluvial fans a thousand feet above the valley floor. The Santa Lucia Highlands appellation (SLH) was the first American Viticultural Area defined by elevation. And it's precisely the elevation that makes this appellation so special.
Salinas Valley Has Zone I Vineyards
While the Salinas Valley experiences hot to very hot summer temperatures, the higher elevation vineyards are classified as Zone I—the coolest winegrowing region. The view from these vineyards is breathtaking. Most vineyards lie above the fog line, enjoying full sun and south-eastern exposure. The mountains protect the vines from afternoon sun and maritime breezes provide a moderating influence.
The soils on these alluvial fans are sandy loam from what is known as the Chualar Soil Series—shallow, moderately well drained, and typical of the soils in the Salinas Valley. Vines growing here receive just enough stress to grow well, while putting their best efforts into the fruit.
The SLH appellation is home to around 30 wineries and most focus on the highest possible quality products. The major players here include Paraiso, Smith & Hook, Hahn, Pisoni, ROAR, Talbott, and Mer Soleil. But prestigious wineries outside the appellation source fruit from the SLH. Belle Glos in Napa Valley offers a SLH Pinot Noir for $225! Siduri sources fruit from two of the best known quality vineyards: Rosella's and Gary's.
Earliest SLH Plantings by Spanish Missionaries
The earliest plantings in the area are said to have occurred in the 1790s with the arrival of the first Spanish missionaries and conquistadores. The modern era began in the 1970s at Paraiso. After experimenting with an assortment of varietals it became apparent that the SLH was an ideal site for Burgundian grapes—Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Pinot Noir from the SLH exhibits a complex profile. Some of the best examples are made from fruit from Gary's Vineyard and Rosella's Vineyard in the middle of the appellation; Pisoni in the south; and Sleepy Hollow in the far north. While the Pinots from Oregon's Willamette Valley and Santa Barbara County's Santa Rita Hills appellation tend towards rich and full bodied wines, the SLH Pinots are elegantly styled and more Burgundian.
Chardonnay shines here also. One of the best we've tasted comes from Mer Soleil. It has many of the layered mineral notes we find in SLH Pinot Noir. It's also unoaked—a current trend in mid-proced and high end California Chardonnay. Neighboring Talbott Vineyards offers an array of outstanding unoaked and unfiltered Chardonnays priced from $40-75. These are among the finest Chardonnays in California.
If you visit the SLH you won't find many attractive lodging options in the area. It's an agricultural region dominated by row crops of green vegetables. The four small towns in the Salinas Valley reflect the ethnic nature of the region. The city of Salinas, about 30 minutes away by car, offers better options. But for a memorable experience, make the extra drive to Monterey or Carmel-by-the-Sea, where you will find a plethora of accommodations ranging from affordable to luxurious. The drive from Monterey to the SLH will take about an hour.
