Israel Wines vs. California Wines
Results of our blind comparison of Israeli and California wines.
Second in a two-part series on Israel vs. California wines.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
Winemaking expertise has returned home to the land where many say it may have begun, several millennia ago. For decades Israeli winemakers sought to match varietals with terroir, often with limited success. It took decades for Israeli wineries to identify the most promising varietals to plant, having started off on what some might say was the wrong foot. The region is generally hot, so little attention was given to cool weather or even moderately cool weather varietals.
In 1967 Israel's wine industry hit the jackpot when Israel acquired the Golan Heights in what is now called Upper Galilee (Galil). This acquisition provided large acreage suitable to viticulture at elevations comparable to California's Sierra Foothills (about 1000 meters). New wineries were established in the Golan and classic French varietals were planted. It was abundantly apparent by the mid 1980s that Cabernet Sauvignon was very well suited to the Golan and the prestige of Israeli wines rose with the refinement of the classic varietals. A major player in the Golan today is Golan Heights Winery, which bottles one of Israel's best Cabernet Sauvignons under the Yarden label.
COMPARING ISRAELI WINES WITH NEW WORLD STYLES
Our blind comparison was conducted in three flights: Merlots, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Bordeaux (Meritage) Blends. In all three flights the difference in style was obvious to all tasters. (See our previous article for a description of the wines.
The Israeli wines were from three different wineries sourcing fruit mostly from Galil, but using fruit from Shomron and Judean Hills in the blended wine. All were superb, well-balanced wines and priced comparably to their California counterparts. All three Israeli wines exhibited laudatory restraint. Alcohol levels ranged from 13.5% to 14%. All wines had received enough bottle age to be engagingly aromatic. Fruit was deep, complex, and layered. Here are the specifics:
THE WINES
2002 Dovev Single Vineyard Merlot, Galil; 14% alc., $33
Attractive deep ruby color with rich flavors of dark cherry, sweet herbs and vanilla. Lightly textured wine, with gentle tannins. Not overly sweet as many New World Merlots tend to be. Dry, lean, and complex. Long finish. A better food partner than it's California counterpart. Recommended.
2002 Dishon Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Galil; 13.8% alc., $35
A meticulously made wine with much to commend it. Deep garnet color with excellent texture. Rich and inviting Bordeaux-like nose, with elements of sweet cedar, chocolate, and blackberries. Restrained and wholly appropriate oak. A superb Cabernet Sauvignon and great value. Much closer to a French Bordeaux than any U.S., Australian, or South African Cabernet we have tasted. Highly Recommended.
2003 Carmel Limited Edition; 50% Cabernet Sauvignon (Upper Galil), 32% Petit Verdot (Shomron), 17% Merlot (Upper Galil), 1% Cabernet Franc (Judean Hills); 13.5% alc., $60.
In a word, splendid! An unusually proportioned Bordeaux blend that could very easily pass for a Premiere Cru from St. Estèphe. Very powerful for a wine with this alcohol level. Most New World Bordeaux-style blends are vinted in the 14-15% range to obtain the richness of flavor present in the Carmel Limited Edition. A very generous nose of cigar box, warm brown spices, and ripe plums leads to similar flavors and a long, seductive finish. We recommend several years of cellaring to soften the tannins and develop even more aroma and integration. A beautiful wine and very highly recommended.
For purchasing information, contact Royal Wine Corp.
