Style in California Riesling
How do today’s California Rieslings compare with those of the past?
Aug 22, 2006
A half century ago Riesling was considered one of California's premier white varietals and was on most Napa Valley product lists, along with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and either Gewurztraminer or Muscat Canelli. Today the latter two varietals have slipped into oblivion and Riesling has become a rare offering. Are California winemakers throwing in the towel? Or are they trying to develop a particular California style that will find an audience?
We recently attended a presentation of more than 400 California wineries pouring more than forty different varietals. Riesling was offered by only 9 wineries (there were other Riesling producers not in attendance). In contrast, 91 wineries offered Sauvignon Blanc and more than 200 poured Chardonnay.
So what's happening on the California Riesling scene? First, Riesling style in California ranges from moderately dry to very sweet, not including late harvest examples. In general, our view is that the most attractive California Rieslings all occupy the drier parts of the spectrum. None of the sweet California Rieslings we tasted had adequate acidity to balance the residual sugar.
The best example of a California Riesling that mimics the classic German Kabinett style comes from Navarro Vineyards in Mendocino County. Their Navarro White Riesling Anderson Valley is a flawless example of a clean drinking, food friendly Riesling, bristling with varietal character. Mouth-filling, dry and crisp; perfect acid balance. We highly recommend this beautiful wine.
A common characteristic of all the California Rieslings we sampled was a similar alcohol content (around 13%) and a similar price (average, about $16).
In the off-dry category, we liked the Hagafen Napa Valley White Riesling. Curiously, even with 4.2% residual sugar (the most of any Rieslings we sampled), this lovely wine drinks just a little sweeter than a dry Riesling and a little shy of the sweetness of a German Spätlese. The Hagafen Riesling exhibits very rich and complex flavors that are almost overwhelming in a light styled, very attractive wine. Recommended.
We were impressed with the Banyan Santa Lucia Highlands Riesling very much. A little softer than the Navarro, this Riesling displays rich, round fruit flavors, along with aromas true to the variety. Recommended.
We found an unusual offering from Maddelena Vineyards, a Los Angeles based winery with historic roots. Their Maddelena Vineyard Riesling is made from fruit sourced from the well-known Paraiso Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County. This is a very nice, sweet dessert wine; still light on the palate and clean drinking. Flavors are round and attractive. This wine would benefit from more acidity, but for $10, you're unlikely to find much competition!
We hope California winemakers will continue their attempts to make high quality Riesling with more varietal character than those currently offered. Not much is being said about clones and terroir, the issues that brought California Pinot Noir out of the doldrums. Perhaps as the appetite for this lovely varietal increases, due to exposure to the fine examples already available, more research and experimentation will lead to California Rieslings second to none.
