Those of us old enough to remember what red Bordeaux tasted like before 1980 or Barolo before 1990 will remember how tannic and terrible they tasted upon release. We bought them for consumption ten or more years down the line, when they would show their glorious true character.
Those wines reflected a style. In recent years, most makers of these wines altered their winemaking procedures in favor of wines that could be enjoyed earlier. This is still a live issue in Piemonte, where a handful of "traditional" winemakers still cling to the old ways.
Nevertheless, European table wines in general are characterized by a style that distinguishes them from those of the New World. They tend to favor higher acid along with moderate levels of extraction. This is especially true of many Italian red wines, which are said to complement food especially well.
The California Style developed gradually from its rustic beginnings in Sonoma and the Sierra Foothills. Early Cabernet Sauvignons were patterned after French models, if a little clumsy. A few still are. Also clumsy. The European model suits neither New World terroirs nor New World consumers. Americans and Australians wanted their wines rich, not too acid, not too tannic, and packed with explosive fruit. Winemakers in California and Australia gave them exactly what they wanted. And the wine industry in those regions burgeoned. This style, associated early on with California, became known as the California Style.
One of the drawbacks of the California Style is that it leads to wines that may be delicious to drink, but do not pair very well with many foods - unlike those Italian wines, which often drink better with food than as stand alone wines.
New World winemakers have been reluctant to move away from this rich, fruit driven style because of consumer demand. Others might argue that this style best fits the potential of the grapes grown in New World vineyards. If New World grapes are harvested earlier, their acid levels might be too high for market appeal; and their potential alcohol levels too low to carry the full flavors of the grape.
In any case, choosing the moment to harvest the grapes is a balancing act, because acid and sugar levels occupy a diametric relationship in the grape's physical development. As acids decline with increased ripening, sugars rise. Harvest too soon and the resulting wine will be more acidic, drier, and lower in alcohol. Harvest too late and the wine becomes flabby, higher in alcohol, and may have a sweet finish. It's all about balance, and it's quite possible that Mother Nature is really in the driver's seat.
In recent years we've seen what appears to be a maturation of what's been called the California Style. And since we are seeing it not only in California, but in Oregon, Washington, Australia, and South America, we'll refer to it as the New World Style.
The New World Style is characterized by wines with a high level of extraction, very good acids, and rather high alcohol levels. We see it in both white and red wines. These wines are rich and the excellent acid backbone carries the flavors to a very long finish. The wines, when properly crafted, have excellent balance and are often unforgettable.
The first wines we found that featured this now-familiar style were the 1997 Zinfandels from Turley Wine Cellars in St. Helena, Napa Valley, California. These unforgettable wines hovered around 16% alcohol, but maintained excellent acid balance. They quickly became the highest rated Zinfandels in the world, often scoring in the mid-90s. They were also the most expensive. They still are.
Soon to follow suit were Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, and Syrahs from producers who could take the risk of a style change. That led to smaller producers without established markets.
We'll look at one of these promising startup wineries, VIE Winery in Lake County, California, in our next article.
