Port wine is made in a variety of very different styles: Vintage, Colheita, Tawny, White, Ruby, Reserve, and more. They are among the least understood wines in the world. We've reported on Tawny Port in another article. These are fairly expensive wines, but still outstanding values. The entry level Port is Ruby Port and when Port wines carry no other designation, and they are from Portugal, they will be of this classification. They are full bodied wines, sweet, fined and filtered, around 20% alcohol, and inexpensive. They make delicious accompaniments to strong cheeses such as blue-veined varieties and aged Cheddars. And they are the most extensively produced Port wines. They do not improve with bottle age.
Reserve Port
The Tawnys and Vintage Ports are considerably more expensive. But just a step up in price from ordinary Ruby Ports are the non-vintage Reserve Ports. These are called reserve because they are usually leftover lots from Vintage bottlings, mixed with other splended leftover lots and aged a bit in lodges, or warehouses owned by the shipper. They represent a big step up in quality over Ruby Ports and just a small step up in price. They occupy a middle ground between Vintage Port and Late Bottled Vintage Port. Their prices are usually somewhere between Ruby Port than Late Bottled Vintage (which should not be confused with Vintage Port; these closely resemble the Reserve Ports and, like them, should not be cellared for long periods of time).
Most of the great Port houses offer a Reserve Port. Here are tasting notes on three fine examples:
Dow's Trademark Finest Reserve Porto; 19.5% alc., $18
Classic Ruby Port in the Dow's slightly drier house style. Aromas of ripe dark Bing cherries, warm spice—cinnamon and allspice—and white pepper. Lovely mouthfeel and rich texture in the glass. Tears carry a slight red tinge. Long finish with excellent acid/sugar balance. Made from fruit from Dow's famous Quinta do Bonfim vineyard as well as neighboring high quality vineyards in the Douro. Recommended.
Graham's Six Grapes Reserve Porto; 19.5% alc., $21
This legendary Reserve Port is made from the classic Port grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela, and Tinta Cão. Think of this wine as a second level Vintage Port that is made to be enjoyed upon purchase. Unlike true Vintage Ports, it won't improve with further bottle age.
Warm, inviting dark sweet cherry aromas greet the nose with delicacy and finesse. Light and bright on the palate, with a suggestion of dried fruit and orange peel. One of the most complex and satisfying examples we know of Port wine made in the Reserve style. Unfined and unfiltered. Highly Recommended.
Smith Woodhouse Lodge Reserve Porto; 20% alc., $18
Rich, jammy, untuous nose and flavor. Dark and full with excellent acid balance. Smith Woodhouse Lodge Reserve Porto represents the textbook Reserve Port style and at $18, a superb value. A hedonistic Port with a very long and satisfying finish. A perfect complement to strong or salty cheeses. Recommended.
