Sweet Wines for Valentine's Day

Sweet or Dry?

Ask any tasting room manager how their patrons respond to the frequently asked question, "Do you prefer dry wines or sweet?" The response is almost 100%. The stated preference is always for dry. But when it comes to purchasing, off-dry whites (aka: sweet) often outpace the bright, acidic dry ones.

The wine drinking public in North America is obviously confused, and understandably so. The typical table wines of a generation or two ago were notably sweet. Many even carried references to well-known sweet wines of Europe: Tokay, Port, Muscatelle, Rhine. But as wine writers began to influence consumers' preferences, we saw a shift towards drier table wines. Red Mountain, Green Hungarian, Chablis Blanc, Hearty Burgundy. These wines were never truly dry, but their advocates believed them to be so. These were followed by varietal wines: Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling. The American wine clientele was steadily moving towards drier wines. Then the traditional wines of Europe, once the province of the well-to-do, exploded onto the New World wine scene. Now we began to understand what dry really meant. We became acquainted with bone dry Muscadet, dry white Burgundy, steely Savennieres, crisp Alsatian whites, austere white Bordeaux. And even the reds lacked that mouth-filling richness associated with New World reds. They were lean and finished dry. Sweet wines declined in popularity.

Sweet Wines Are Making a Come-back.

But sweet wines are finding a new popularity today, even among those disinclined to admit it. New World Chardonnay has a decidedly sweet finish and has become the most widely planted varietal in California. Perhaps its monumental success with typical wine lovers has reduced their disdain for sweetness in wine.

Sweet Wines and Food.

Sweet wines have always been associated with desserts and cheese courses. Today we have a rich panoply from which to choose. One of the most gracious aspects of a fine dinner is a cheese course consisting of two or three artisanal cheeses and, yes, a sweet wine. Robust reds can work, too, but the classic pairings almost always call for Port, Sauternes, or a late harvest white.

Australia offers spectacular values in rich, sweet Muscadelle from Chambers. A steal at $15.99.

While we could suggest a wide spectrum of delicious sweet wines for cheese courses, Valentine's Day calls to mind another special food: chocolate. And that brings to mind the knotty issue of pairing sweet wines with sweet foods. The generally accepted rule is that wines meant to complement sweet foods should never be sweeter than the food. There are notable exceptions. Many people enjoy a rich Port with chocolate, and even Julia Child recommended a sweet Sauternes with a delicately flavored soufflé Grand Marnier.

Chocolate and Wine.

We've tried pretty much every imaginable wine with chocolate and keep returning to our original opinion. The combination of dark chocolate, especially in the form of a truffle or bon bon, is best complemented by a rich Cabernet Sauvignon. Not a late harvest Zinfandel, although there are some who wouldn't turn that combination down. It seems to be the unique flavor profile of Cabernet Sauvignon that marries so well with chocolate, turning the combined flavor into something reminiscent of a chocolate covered cherry.

So for a memorable Valentine's Day experience, why not finish off your meal with chocolate and Cabernet, then cozy up to the fire with a nice Port? Did I mention the Stilton?

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