The Gentrification of Paso Robles

Just two decades ago the city of Paso Robles was considered a dusty, ungentrified town populated by cattlemen and orchardists. It was the kind of town you drove through without stopping. In just a few years it’s become a destination, not only for locals, but for wine lovers around the world. It’s seen a procession of four star restaurants and upscale hotels. The downtown area, left in shambles by the 2003 San Simeon earthquake, is in process of rebuilding and retrofitting. It’s now one of the prettiest and most charming downtown areas on the California Central Coast. And it’s conveniently served by an airport just 5 minutes from downtown.

An Old Winemaking Tradition

The history of winegrowing in Paso Robles goes back to 1882, making it one of the oldest wine regions in the western U.S. and just thirteen years more recent than California’s oldest known vineyard still in operation—Amador’s Grandpere Vineyard.

But despite the success of early wine pioneers such as York, Rotta, and Pesenti, who supplied good, cheap wine to locals who filled their own bottles and jugs directly from the barrels for pocket change, not much changed till the explosion of new wineries in the 1980s. With new wineries opening every year, the count quickly rose to over 100. And these comprise the full range of winery operations from single proprietors who do everything but harvest to giant corporate-owned wineries such as Meridian.

Paso Robles Today

With the rise of property values in coastal areas and an influx of investment capital, many of the new Paso Robles wineries are upscale architectural wonders, some featuring restaurants, banquet halls, villas, and in one case, even an outdoor amphitheater. Almost all have charming picnic facilities and some even offer picnic supplies.

The popularity of Paso Robles as a wine destination was underscored recently by the more than 5,000 visitors who braved 103° heat to attend the 26th annual Paso Robles Wine Festival in City Park. More than 300 wines were offered by 91 wineries. This event is held each year in May. Details are posted on the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance website.

Wine Touring in Paso Robles

If you drive to Paso Robles, be sure to visit the main winegrowing areas:

Highway 46 East—You’ll see a vast expanse of meticulously tended vineyards and beautiful welcoming wineries, such a Martin-Weyrich, Eos, Eberle, Robert Hall, Meridian, and Tobin James. Mitchella—A charming little home winery just behind massive Robert Hall—offers an array of excellent, affordable wines.

Highway 46 West—Running west from U.S. 101, Highway 46 West offers more than 20 small to medium sized wineries within just a few miles. Stop in at Eagle Castle for wine tasting in a medieval setting that was named “Structure of the Year” in 2007 by the California Concrete Ass’n.

Vineyard Drive/Peachy Canyon Rd.—Take this road north off U.S. 101 from Templeton to Peachy Canyon Dr. and back into Paso Robles. You will pass by the historic Rotta Vineyard, Turley Wine Cellars, Denner, and Opolo, Turning east on Peachy Canyon Dr. will take you through the heart of the Westside Paso Robles region. Here you will see historic vineyards, such as the famous HMR, and vineyards planted on steep mountainous terrains where even goats would have difficulty farming. Stop in at Nadeau Family Vintners for a splendid Zinfandel made by one of the regions most respected Zinfandel makers. The view from Calcareous Vineyard over the Salinas Valley is not to be missed. And their wines are an added treat.

Wherever you go in north San Luis Obispo County you will find wineries tucked away in hidden swales, on the top of mountains, and spread out in the Salinas Valley and Estrella Bench. No traffic—no waiting at tasting rooms. Tasting fees range from free to $10, with the average at $5.

Doce Robles Booth

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