The Resurgence of Rosé
Pink Wines Are Making a Strong Comeback.
The story of pink wines in the New World is convoluted and unbelievably interesting. Before the 60s, wine in America was mostly sweet, red and white alcoholic wines designed for mass sale to large consumer markets. Rosé was pretty much a sideshow. In Europe the scene was very different. Rosé wines were common in the south of France. And they were bone dry.
Bone dry wines were not popular in America in the 50s and the 60s were consumed with the notion of pure varietal wines, championed by Beaulieu Vineyards. The emphasis was on pure varietal red and white French varieties.
Meanwhile, the largest American producers were concentrating on inexpensive blends based mostly on high-yielding varieties such as Colombard and Thompson Seedless. We saw the huge popularity of "designer wines" such as Ripple and Thunderbird. And then the mega-wineries discovered Grenache. Unfortunately, it was planted in the wrong place (hot California Central Valley) and the skins bleached to a medium pink color. Thus was the birth of commercial California Rosé.
These early rosé wines were monodimensional and sweet. They were a huge success until the ascendency of dry table wines. Suddenly the interest shifted to wines with classy French names and the mass marketed sweet wines of the past declined in esteem, if not in popularity. Dry wines had become the darlings of the dinner table.
In those days there were no serious rosé wines in the American market. Connoisseurs knew about the classic rosés of Tavel and Lirac, but these wines were rarely found in domestic wine shops. Occasionally one might find a Rosé d'Anjou, a sweetish wine that was never considered a serious contender. Then came the revolution.
An accidental stuck Zinfandel fermentation in a Napa Valley winery resulted in a pleasant, sweet and nondescript rosé wine that tourists gulped up by the case. Since red and white were the standard bearers of all serious wine in the 60s, the new wine was christened White Zinfandel. And the displays in wine stores and, especially, supermarkets all over the U.S. suddenly turned pink.
White Zinfandel ran its course and declined with the growing sophisication of American consumers. Today it occupies a footnote in the larger wine market.
But pink is returning and in spades. American wine consumers are rediscovering the charm of old world styled rosés and New World winemakers are putting their own spin on them. Rosé wines are the fastest growing segment of the American wine market—and with good reason. They are terrific. Some would say they're even better than their old world prototypes.
The vanguard of the New World rosés was Vin Gris, a dry rosé of Pinot Noir introduced back in the early 90s under labels such as Vin Gris de Cigare from Bonny Doon. Superb examples followed with offerings by Sanford and other Central Coast vintners. Many of the current quality dry rosés are varietal wines; most are blends. Some are sweetish in the old California tradition; the best are dry in the European tradition. Here are three examples:
2007 La Ferme Julien Côtes du Ventoux; 13% alc., $6
A classic blend of Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah, made by the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Pretty in the glass. Aromas of fresh cut strawberries dominate the nose. Light and very dry on the palate, this wine is slightly richer than typical dry rosés from Provence. Fairly simple flavor profile, with little varietal characteristics, but delicious nevertheless and a terrific value. Recommended.
2007 Clos du Bois Rosé Sonoma County; 13%, $12
A blend of 70% Syrah, 30% Merlot. Rich, attractive cool pink color. Fresh aromatics, redolent of strawberries and watermelon. Very clean drinking with just enough sweetness to allow the fruit flavors to sing, but finishes dry on the palate.
Syrah has been a grape of choice for premium varietal rosé wines. The addition of 30% Merlot complements the Syrah base, resulting in a richer, more layered flavor profile. Clos du Bois Rosé is a "designer wine," carefully marrying early and normal harvest fruit to obtain both crisp freshness and ripe fruit flavors. Free-run juice is blended back into the press faction. A distinctive rosé with great character. Highly recommended.
2007 Pietra Santa Rosato Cienega Valley; 13.6% alc., $15
Delightful cool carmine color from 100% Dolcetto grapes grown on the estate. Aromas of watermelon, strawberries and rose petals. Very crisp and fresh on the palate, the Pietra Santa Rosato is like a a stroll through a delicately scented Spring garden. Made by Alessio Carli, one of California's most notable Italian winemakers, Pietra Santa Rosato is unlike typical California rosé wines due to a strict employment of Italian varieties and perfection of balance. Pietra Santa Rosato has always been one of our favorite New World rosé wines. Highly recommended.
What do you think about this article?
Comments
More in Food & Drink
Latest Articles