Western Australia Wine Reviews

Western Australia is the largest of Australia’s states, occupying about 1/3 of the continent. It’s wine regions are all located in the southwest coastal regions. There are nine named appellations with several sub-regions. Western Australian wine styles differ from those more familiar wines from South Australia, Victoria, and New South Wales about as much as Italy differs from California. That is to say that Western Australia wines tend toward leanness in contrast to those of the southeast. I would invite the comparison of a center cut pork chop to a roasted pork shoulder. Both good, but very different.

Western Australia’s most commonly drunk wine is SSB, or Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc. An interesting side note, considering the North American craze for well-oaked Chardonnay. We didn’t have the chance to taste an ordinary SSB, but we found a terrific Sauvignon Blanc at a very affordable price.

2005 Salitage Sauvignon Blanc “Treehouse” Pemberton; 12% alc., $10

Petulant, aromatic with suggestions of lychee. Very light on the palate. Dry, refreshing. Great value. Recommended.

We’ve not been fond of Aussie Rieslings, but we found one that we liked especially well. All the Aussie Rieslings we’ve tasted over the years have exhibited fairly strong diesel notes, not necessarily a fault, but not to everyone’s taste.

2005 Leeuwin Estate Riesling Margaret River; 12% alc., $20

Very light on the palate. Dry and lean. An excellent partner for quiche. Recommended.

2004 Pikes Riesling Clare Valley; 12% alc., $19

This wine from South Australia was paired with the Leeuwin Estate to demonstrate the difference in style between east and west. It exhibited a fuller body, more petrol, and rounder on the palate. Possibly more Germanic in style, but the Leeuwin Estate showed more complexity and we preferred its lightness as a food friendly Riesling.

Chardonnays from Margaret River have been the torchbearer for Western Australia for the past twenty years. They tend to lack the sticky, buttery sweetness of many from the southeast and the best can actually pass for white Burgundy.

2004 Frankland Estate Chardonnay “Isolation Ridge” Frankland River Region; 14.5% alc., $20

Good aromatics, restrained oak. Carnation on the nose, along with almond. Honeyed finish. Slight tannin from oak. Recommended.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA REDS

2004 Howard Park Shiraz “Scotsdale” Great Southern; 14.5% alc., $25

Very good aromatics. Delicious, restrained flavors. Concentrated. Smoke, thyme, pepper, steel. A bright wine and very food friendly. Recommended.

2002 Plantagenet Shiraz Mount Barker; 13% alc., $30

Moderately aromatic, round, rich, deep fruit, dusty dark cherry. Amazing depth for a 13% wine.

2006 Mollydooker Shiraz “The Boxer” McLaren Vale; 16% alc., $24

Again, a comparison wine from South Australia. Very attractive to those who like their Shiraz to resemble a dryish Port. Incredible depth, very rich and candied. Dusty nose, pepper, dark cherry. Great with chocolate or blue cheese, but over the top as a food wine.

2004 Watershed Cabernet Sauvignon “Awakening” Margaret River; 13.5% alc., $30

Delicate aromatics with a varietal nose of dried cherry, violets, grass, alfalfa and pepper. Balanced and restrained, but thoroughly delicious.

2003 Arlewood Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River; 14% alc., $30

Delicate aromatics, noticeably tannic, lemony finish.

2001 Leeuwin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” Margaret River; 13% alc., $40

Top wine of the tasting. Lovely nose of dried cherry, chocolate, flowers, white pepper. Yeasty, complex, and richly flavored. Tannins still prominent, but should resolve over the next several years. Superb with chocolate (or anything else!). Highly Recommended.

A WESTERN AUSTRALIAN DESSERT WINE

2006 Plantagenet Chenin Blanc “Off the Rack” Western Australia; 13% alc., $20/500ml

An unusual dessert wine with aromas of grapefruit and sulfur and peach on the finish. Excellent with chocolate.

Western Australia

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