It's hard to believe that after thousands of years of winemaking worldwide and at least a century of research into every aspect of viniculture and enology the world of wine continues to evolve to ever higher levels.Wine today is cheaper-and more expensive-than ever before and quality has risen to the point that any winery offering inferior product at its price point is bound for failure.
Style is Evolving
Evolution of style is almost as regular in the wine industry as the new models of automobiles announced annually. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the latest examples of a variety that is rapidly rising from a crisp, citrusy style with a faint edge of sweetness to a much more interesting and complex wine that relies much more on the winemaker's skill and deft hand than in former years. The new breed of California Sauvignon Blanc comes with a higher price tag as well. Most of the top Sauvignons are priced around $30, putting them in direct competition with many excellent Chardonnays.
The A-B-C movement (Anything But Chardonnay) is now almost two decades old, but the ABC crowd has yet to embrace any specific variety. Old habits die hard and Chardonnay is still the most widely planted white wine grape in the U. S. Sauvignon's sales in the U. S. have remained minuscule compared to Chardonnay's commercial powerhouse. And so many distinguished winemakers are attempting to raise the quality of New World Sauvignon to competitive levels. We like what we're seeing. Here's an example:
Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Tres Sabores Sauvignon Blanc Farina Vineyard Sonoma Mountain; 14.1% alcohol, $22.
Tres Sabores is a Napa Valley winery that sources its Sauvignon fruit from a single vineyard just across the county line in Sonoma County. Crisp and clean in appearance and taste, Tres Sabores Sauvignon Blanc is a good example of California's new highly polished Sauvignons. A distinctive aroma of wild herbs with mineral notes brings to mind the chapparal-covered hillsides of Sonoma County. In a sense, Tres Sabores Sauvignon Blanc is liquid geography. Fresh and understated, Tres Sabores Sauvignon Blanc is reminiscent of an elegant white Bordeaux and will easily complement the most delicate of seafood dishes. Recommended.
Pinot Grigio
The evolution of New World Pinot Grigio from watery monodimensional value wine to aggressive, distinctive wine can be seen in a few examples beginning to appear. Here's one we recommend:
2007 Pietra Santa Pinot Grigio "Amore" Cienega Valley; 14.7% alcohol, $24.
Very light straw color. Arresting aromas of lychee, honeysuckle, and almond typical of the best examples of this variety inform the nose. Flavors follow the nose, adding a bright citrus note that perfectly complements the rounder floral notes. The proprietary name "Amore" might suggest a sweet wine, or at least a wine with a sweet finish, but despite the sweet aroma, this wine drinks and finishes completely dry. No wimpy wine, either. Its 14.7% alcohol level gives it a substantial body-richer and fuller than any California Pinot Grigio we've tasted-and a beautiful mouthfeel and viscosity that expresses itself with "legs" or "tears" that appear immediately following the first swirl. Pietra Santa "Amore" is a highly distinctive Pinot Grigio that will appeal to those accustomed to rich New World Chardonnays. Recommended.
California has been in competition with France for quality preeminence ever since the 1976 Judgment of Paris. We bested them in Cabernet Sauvignon, then in Pinot Noir a few years later. Calera's first release of California Viognier was hailed by one (U. S.) critic as "better than Condrieu," the world standard for that variety. Formerly obscure Rhône varieties began to appear in California in the 1980s and we expect the years ahead to bring us a head-to-head combat for preeminence with those varieties. So far, the French still hold the lead with reds but there are exciting white Rhône blends coming on the market. Paso Robles' Tablas Creek has enjoyed great success with its Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc-and ratings of 92-94 points. Might this and other California white Rhône blends be seriously competitive with white Hermitage sometime soon? We recently tasted a proprietary Rhône blend from a new winery in Arroyo Grande, California:
White Rhône Blend
2007 Hearthstone "Pearl" Paso Robles; 14.5% alcohol, $18
Aromas suggest Meyer lemon cheesecake and honeysuckle. Bright on the palate with deep, delicious and satisfying flavors. It's 60% Roussanne/40% Viognier and displays some of the best characteristics of each variety: roundness and softness from Roussanne, complexity and brilliance from Viognier. A good example of artisanal wine from Paso Robles' hilly westside region and a terrific value at $18-roughly 1/10 the cost of a top French white Rhône blend.
