Old vs New World White Wine Styles
Oak, Climate, and Hang and Cellar Time set apart California's South Coast Winery and New Zealand's Villa Maria Marlborough Reserve and Australia's Bird in Hand Sauvignon Blancs
Mar 29, 2006
Much has been written on the differences between European and New World wines. Just a few decades ago these differences in style were unmistakable. Today they are less so, but New World winemakers seem to be increasingly inclined to try to emulate the old ways.
Chardonnay styles provide a classic example. For centuries white Burgundy (Chardonnay) was considered the most voluptuous dry white wine in the world. It was made in a traditional way, using old oak barrels and retained a strong varietal character and sense of terroir.
In constrast, New World winemakers, because of burgeoning demand for their wine, were forced to make increasing use of new oak barrels. It was not long before winemakers and the drinking public discovered the added dimensions that new oak imparted to Chardonnay.
At first, New World consumers preferred the honeyed vanilla and intense tropical fruit flavors that new oak promoted at the expense of varietal character. We heard increasing talk of the buttery texture that full malolactic fermentation provides. These wines came to be known as the California style of Chardonnay and was widely espoused by winemakers in Australia and South America.
Today the taste for these overpowering slightly sweet California Style Chardonnays is waning. New World winemakers are backing away from full malolactic fermentation in their Chardonnays and we see an increasing trend towards unoaked Chardonnays. An excellent and inexpensive example from California's South Coast Winery may be found in our review of Temecula Valley wines.
Today's predominant styles in New World white wines find their roots in Old World vs. New World methods. Most of the vineyard areas of France, Germany, and northern Italy are subject to climatic conditions that determine harvest time. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes are typically harvested as soon as the sugars develop enough to produce wines of 11-13% alcohol. Additional hang time is viewed as risky, although necessary for the sweeter Rieslings, Tokay Pinot Gris, and Chenin Blanc wines. Wines made from early harvested grapes require more cellar time to allow the flavors to develop, often an additional year or two.
Climate plays a lesser role in much of California, the Columbia Valley in Washington State, and most of the vineyard areas of Australia and South America. In these locations grapes are often harvested later, allowing flavors to intensify and sugars to increase. The increased sugars lead to high alcohol in dry wines, often 14% or more. These wines are fuller, richer, and feature more concentrated flavors. They are ready to drink sooner but do not age as gracefully as the leaner styled wines, particularly when they have been influenced by oak.
A very interesting comparison may be found in two Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand and Australia, currently available. 2004 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Reserve is a mouth filling 14% Sauvignon with great complexity and body. It represents the current New World style and is highly recommended.
Two years older than the example above is the elegant and stylish 2002 Bird in Hand Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills. Very complex and varietally pure, this lovely 11.5% Sauvignon should cellar very well over the next two to three years and is also highly recommended.
