Boxed wine was actually a good idea that never realized its market potential. It was intended to replace half-gallon or gallon jugs whose wine was bound to deteriorate over the life of the jug due to oxidation. Boxes solved that problem by putting the product in a plastic bladder that shrank to fit the amount of wine remaining in the box, protecting against oxidation. But wine is viewed as a more elegant alternative to other beverages and the idea of putting it in boxes appeared to diminish its image and the boxes lost currency to a flurry of very inexpensive bottled wines. The $2-3 bottles offered the same imagery as their more expensive brethren and were often better and less expensive than the boxed wines.
Wine in a Can
So what’s the point of canned wine? Well, first, new world wine drinkers no longer view wine as a luxury. It’s now cheap enough to drink with every meal. (Breakfast wine, anyone?) Many younger people are taking a casual approach to wine, so why not can it? The practicality of putting cans of wine on ice in an Igloo to be carted off to a picnic cannot be disputed.
But there is that issue of how canned wine is intended to be drunk. Beer is so often drunk straight from the can that many casual restaurants don’t even offer a glass unless a patron asks for it. Will ever-increasing numbers of wine drinkers enjoy their Shiraz straight from the can? Or will they pour it into stemware? That might be awkward at a picnic. Plastic cups? You can be sure that many will simply pop the can and introduce it directly to the mouth. The Barokes website displays a photo of a patron doing just that.
In Defense of Stemware
Unlike most other beverages, the total sensory experience of wine is much more than its flavor alone. Clear stemware allows us to enjoy its color and visual texture (legs). Proper stemware allows swirling, which opens up the aromatics. Much of the pleasure offered by wine is in those aromatics. Proper stemware also protects the wine from warming due to handling. We see no reason to abandon these advantages in the interest of convenience. We think that the realm of canned beverages is better suited to soft drinks.
Product Range
It’s not just Shiraz that’s being offered in cans. It’s Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet blends, and five sparkling wines! It’s hard to imagine anyone choosing to drink sparkling wine from a can. But then we drink 7-up straight from the can! The Australian company, Barokes, holds the patent on the technology required to get their products into cans and they are marketing their canned wine worldwide. You can order online but you must order the wines by the case. And they aren’t cheap. A 24-can case costs $96 plus shipping. That’s $4+ per can of wine.
Reviews of Wine in a Can
The winery labels its wines Premium Australian Wine and says that all the wines are canned at their peak of drinkability. Here are our reviews:
Barokes Blanc de Blancs Premium Australian Carbonated Wine Vibrant White; 13% alc., $4/250ml.
Deep gold color with very little mousse (foam). Bubbles are very fine and the mouthfeel is actually more like a high-grade sparkler than an inexpensive methode Champenoise. Slightly metallic aromatics and flavor is full-bodied. Drinks more like a full-bodied off-dry white wine that has been carbonated than a traditional sparkling wine that is made from unripe fruit. We threw out our prejudices and tried drinking it directly from the can. It seemed more at home in the can than in the glass.
Barokes Shiraz Premium Australian Wine; 13% alc., $4/250ml
Brownish ruby color. Warm fruity nose with slight metallic undertone. Notably sweet on the palate with notes of candied dark cherries and a sweet finish. Drink it chilled right from the can. Stemware highlights the wine’s flaws.
Barokes Chardonnay Premium Australian Wine; 13% alc., $4/250ml
Deep golden color. Lemony caramel nose with slight metallic, chemical undertone. Would not pass muster as a bottled Chardonnay.
Barokes Blanc de Noirs Vibrant Red Premium Australian Carbonated Wine; 13% alc., $4/250ml.
This appears to be the same wine as their Shiraz, but with carbonation.
