Wines of Southern Italy
Splendid Wines From Exotic Varieties
The Italian wines that come most easily to mind are the traditional wines of the north: Chianti, Brunello, Barolo, Barbaresco, Valpolicella, Amarone, so-called Supertuscans and the like. They are made mostly from grapes well-known to the western world: Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon.
As the United States has slipped into first place worldwide in wine consumption, besting Italy, it's useful to note that winegrowing is a relatively recent phenomenon in America. And wine appreciation among Americans is even more recent. In contrast, Winegrowing and regular consumption has been a mainstay of Italian culture for millenia. Italy possesses over a thousand indigenous wine grape varieties, more than any other country. And wine is made from hundreds of these varieties.
Up till recently most Italian wine imports to North America were largely restricted to varieties with well-established credentials. Most have been, and still are, northern Italian wines. Southern Italy has been known mostly for its Primitivo (a Zinfandel clone) and blended dry red wines such as Salice Salentino. But there exists a treasure trove of spectacular wines from other indigenous varieties now appearing in the U. S. market. And many of them offer far better value than New World wines of comparable quality. We reviewed a few of them.
2005 Fatalone Greco Spinomarino, Murgia, Puglia; 12% alc., $20
Greco is a grape variety almost completely unknown. Some believe it to be a mutation of Trebbiano, sharing many characteristics. The Fatalone Greco is a bouquet of herbs and racy fruit, Very dry and complex with an intriguing aroma. Recommended.
2000 Faraone Trebbiano d'Abruzzo; 11.5% alc., $36
This is the richest and most expensive Trebbiano we've yet encountered. Trebbiano from Italy's northern provinces, such as Tuscany, is usually thin, uncomplicated, and acidic. It's major contribution is its use as a blending component in red wines. In contrast, Faraone ages this Trebbiano in stainless steel tanks for eight or nine years. The resulting wine is golden, full-bodied, very complex, and bone dry. Recommended.
2006 Torricino Fiano di Avellino, Campania; 13.5% alc., $25
If you experience only one Italian white wine in your lifetime, let this be the wine! Fiano di Avellino is a variety capable of rendering absolutely exquisite wines and this is as good as Fiano gets. Think Pinot Grigio on steroids. Richly flavored, but more in the sense of grand cru white Burgundy than New World Chardonnay. The Torricino, like great white Burgundy or Chablis, provides a wonderful food complement. Highly Recommended.
2004 Colle Acre Eloro Rosso Thyonianus Nero d'Avola, Sicily; 13% alc., $35
Eloro is a distinguished D.O.C. (appellation) in Sicily and produces many of Sicily's finest examples of Nero-d'Avola, a cousin of France's Syrah. You might find a $35 New World Syrah or Shiraz that can compete with this wine, but none comes quickly to mind. This wine is thick and rich, with wonderful aromatics. Classic old school textures, Asian spices and earth on the nose. This wine is the essence of the ripest fruit from the oldest vines. Highly Recommended.
2003 Fatalone Gioia del Colle Primitivo Riserva, Puglia; 15% alc., $37
This wine is Zinfandel with class and Old World style. Big, rich, meaty, smoky, and not over-the-top like so many 15% alcohol California Zinfandels. Its richness is balanced with great acidity, so the overall impression is less sweet than its California counterparts, even California Primitivos. Absolutely fabulous wine and Very Highly Recommended.
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