Comparing Columbia Gorge Wines

How do the wines of the Columbia Gorge compare to their American counterparts?

Not many decades ago each North American winegrowing region was thought to enjoy a certain uniqueness. The wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains often displayed a mineral quality (and still do). New York State wines were seen as lean, California as opulent. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was unparalleled. The United States Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms organized these regions into American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) on the basis of such supposed uniquenesses. In some cases, these designations were fully justified; in many cases, not.

With giant strides in both viticulture and enology, along with the ability to source grapes from other regions, many of these regional distinctions are blurred. Nevertheless, we can offer a few generalities.

Rhône varietals are finding a happy home in the Columbia Gorge. Look for competitive Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, and Roussanne. These wines are likely to be leaner than the same varietals from the Columbia Valley AVA or from California, and possibly more food friendly.

Pinot Noir is just beginning to gain a foothold in the Gorge. We still look to Oregon's Willamette Valley and California's Santa Barbara and Sonoma AVAs for the best American examples.

Zinfandel is in its infancy in the Gorge, but we've seen promising attempts. Bordeaux varietals, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and even Sauvignon Blanc do not seem as suited in the Gorge as do the Rhône varietals. Look to producers like L'Ecole No. 41, Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, and Chateau Ste-Michelle for Bordeaux style wines made from grapes sourced from specific single vineyards within the Columbia Valley appellation.

Merlot has always been at the top of the quality list for Washington State and may still be, although Syrah is fast catching up. But now some outstanding Merlot is coming from California. See our article on California Merlot.