Three California Chardonnays compared
Chardonnay is by far the most widely planted wine grape in California, comprising around 40% of all white varietals crushed. It is also a varietal that is especially prone to expressing its terroir of origin. We are offering tasting notes on three Chardonnays, representing Carneros, Napa Valley, and the south Central Coast.
It is essential that full-bodied white wines like Chardonnay be served at the right temperature — just a little cooler than cellar temperature, never straight from the fridge. Wines with a complex flavor and aroma profile will not be fully expressive at temperatures much below 55°.
LOS CARNEROS
This is the low elevation region that straddles Sonoma and Napa Counties just north of San Francisco Bay. The soils here are very thin — around three feet! Grapevines planted here are naturally stressed, not only by the thinness of the soils but by the cool breezes coming from the bay. This is prime Chardonnay country.
2005 Buena Vista Chardonnay Carneros; 13.5% alc., $19 Good aromas of melon, almond and orange blossoms, with some citrus and a hint of honey. Light on the palate with a lingering sweet finish. Buena Vista’s Carneros Chardonnay will appeal to those who enjoy an aromatic, smooth-drinking Chardonnay with a pleasantly sweet finish. Try it with a nutty Swiss cheese such as Emmenthaler or Gruyere.
NAPA VALLEY
The farther north you travel in Napa Valley the less suitable the terroir becomes for Chardonnay. But the hillside regions on both sides of the valley mitigate the warmer temperatures with elevation. Atlas Peak lies just east of the city of Napa and provides an excellent growing environment for Chardonnay.
2004 William Hill Estate Chardonnay Napa Valley; 13.8% alc., $21 William Hill’s 2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay is a nicely balanced example of traditional California full malolactic, barrel-fermented Chardonnay. Fruit for this wine was sourced from both Carneros and Atlas Peak and is distinguished by a mineral undertone. Rich and full on the palate with very good aromas of apricot, papaya, green apple, crème brulée and other sweet oak products. Try this wine with barbequed chicken or full-flavored soft-ripened cheeses such as Tellegio, Reblochon or Saint Nectaire.
CENTRAL COAST
2005 Wild Horse Chardonnay Central Coast; 13.9% alc., $17 Lovely varietal nose of ripe pears, honey, ginger, and the tropical fruit aromatics typical of Central Coast Chardonnays. Unlike many upscale vineyard-designated Chardonnays that seek to express their unique terroir, the Wild Horse Central Coast Chardonnay is a delicious blend of Chardonnay grapes from five very different vineyards ranging from cool Santa Barbara County to warm San Benito. Partial malolactic fermentation allowed the winemaker to achieve optimal acid balance while preserving a rich mouth feel. A variety of French, Hungarian, and American cooperage also adds complexity. Wild Horse Central Coast Chardonnay is remarkably consistent from year to year and very attractively priced for a wine of this level of refinement and character. Recommended.
