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Posted by Alan Boehmer Sep 13, 2006 |
Not so long ago variety in wine selection was largely the province of European wines, thanks to labeling procedures that identified each wine with its specified origin, rather than with its varietal. Most people who purchased Clos Vougeot probably didn't even think about what grape varietal they were drinking. And perhaps they imagined that Santanay was something entirely different.
And so California led the truth in labeling crusade by giving prominence to the name of the grape varietal. And U. S. lawmakers eased the winemaker's pain by requiring that only 75% of the wine had to be the named varietal. And so we grew up with dozens of Cabernet Sauvignons, Chardonnays, Zinfandels, Rieslings, and Sauvignon Blancs from which to choose. All variations on the same varietal theme.
So popular were these varietals in the 60s and 70s that few California wineries with tasting rooms failed to offer them - and more often than not, nothing else except an occasional dessert wine.
Today's selection is vastly different, even though many wineries still stick to the old tried and true favorites. Syrah has gone mainstream. Pinot Noir has become a celebrity wine, along with oh-so-stylish Viognier.
But now we are faced with a bewildering plethora of previously unknown varietals: Marssanne, Grenache Blanc, Garganega, Barbera, Carignane, Malbec, Mourvedre, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Counoise, Primitivo, Pinotage, and a few dozen more.
Of course, none of these varietals are new. They are just as old as the more familiar ones. It's just that they have been grown in restricted places such as Piedmont, the Rhône valley, Italy, Spain, and South Africa.
Are any of these varietals poised to become the favorites of the next generation? We can't say just yet, but remember that a couple of decades ago few of us were drinking American Pinot Noir and most of us had never even heard of Merlot.
See our article on Grenache for some interesting insight into that promising varietal.
You can find over two hundred articles in our California Wine archive.