Do the French really enjoy a monopoly on the best varietals?
Ever since the 1960s wineries all over the New World have opted to cast aside generic wines (such as Chablis, Burgundy, Mountain Red, etc.) in favor of varietal names, or wines named after their principal grape varietal (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, etc.).
European producers, protecting their richer traditions, have largely retained the old labeling practices. So few purchasers of Hungarian Tokaji have any knowledge of the actual grape varieties used. There are still many lovers of white Burgundy who don't realize that they are drinking Chardonnay. Even aficionados of Chianti often fail to realize they're drinking Sangiovese.
So revered are the grape varieties which have been the foundation of the great European wines that many wine writers refer to them as noble varietals. Depending upon whose list you are reading, they might include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Muscat Canelli and Gewurztraminer on the white list; and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, and Tempranillo on the red list. It can be argued that these varieties are used to produce almost all the world's finest wines.
This notion was at least partly true up to the last decade or so. That is when the top enological and viticultural schools and universities such as Geisenheim (Germany), Melbourne (Australia), Adelaide (Australia), Nova Gorica (Slovenia), Krems (Austria), and UC Davis and Cal State Fresno (both in California) began to graduate students with the all the tools necessary to grow the right varieties in the best places and maximize the fruit's wine potential. Today, any winemaker who doesn't offer a superior product is likely to be out of a job.
What has this meant for the wine industry? For one thing, a dizzying array of superb wines at all price levels. But also, a coming of age for varietals previously relegated to a lower status. Some examples:
California Zinfandel has never reached the levels of quality and style modern examples now show. Zinfandel was never on anyone's list of noble varietals. Ditto, Petit Sirah.
Mourvedre has reached such a quality level in Bandol recently (I know, "Old World") that it is being compared to great red Burgundy and Bordeaux. Malbec has found wonderful expression in Argentina, as has Carmeniere in Chile. Never heard of it? You will!
Australian Muscadelle is now responsible for some of the world's finest dessert wines. An added bonus is that it's not even expensive. Once Muscadelle becomes recognized as a varietal capable of competing with Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Furmint (Tokaj) and Sauvignon, expect the price to rise along with its noble status.
Previous blending varietals now compete on a level playing field with the noble varietals. Viognier, Roussanne, Pinot Gris, for instance. And some almost forgotten varietals are moving into the competitive market. Barbera, Grenache, Dolcetto, Albariño, Arneis.
So maybe it's time to throw out the old notion of certain varietals born to greatness. Greatness is now in the hands of the viticulturist and winemaker.
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