The Cutting Edge of Cali Varietals

A report from the Family Winemakers' of California 9th Annual Trade Tasting in Pasadena, CA

Trade tastings like the Family Winemakers' of California Annual Trade Tastings in Pasadena and San Francisco show the current state of affairs in the California wine industry. At the Pasadena tasting on March 18 more than 300 wineries were represented. "Family Winemakers" in this context means not incorporated. So many of the big guys like Kendall-Jackson were represented.

Each year the wines offered to the trade represent the state of commercial wine in California. Rising stars become apparent, such as Grenache (12 examples) and Petite Sirah (37) show rising interest in these formerly obscure varietals. Tempranillo (9), once the most widely planted Italian varietal in California—by far—is failing to attract an audience. On the other hand, Syrah (129) surpassed even Zinfandel (95) and has now found a place among the standard tried-and-true California varietals.

A considerable number of wineries continue to test the waters with lesser-known varietals: Charbono, Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, Malbec, and others. We applaud their efforts and wish to see more of these unusual offerings.

A surprise was in the growing number of rosé offerings (46). This shows that American audiences have finally outgrown their adolescent infatuation with white Zinfandel. All the rosé wines we sampled were dry or slightly off-dry and many were outstanding.

Gewürztraminer (9) and Riesling (8) were poorly represented. California winemakers have largely been less than fully successful with these varietals so far, although there are a few notable examples.

Kings of the hill were, as expected, Cabernet Sauvignon (187) and Chardonnay (129). It's what people continue to purchase at all price points, so that's what wineries that want to stay in business offer. Pinot Noir (104) continues on the rise and Merlot (94) seems to be holding its own.