Which shape is most suitable for sparkling wines?
Champagne has always been associated with specially shaped glasses. Before the middle of the last century, the coupe or saucer shaped glass was considered de rigeur. These shallow, wide glasses on a short stem were said to mimic the famous coupes molded on the breast of Marie Antoinette by the Sèvres porcelain factory in Limoges, one of which still exists. In any case, the weakness of this design for Champagne was apparent: the bubbles dissipated quickly due to the large surface area exposed to air and spillage was a constant problem.
Over the past few decades the coupe has largely been replaced by the flute. These tall and narrow glasses, also on a short stem, provide visual interest as the bubbles rise in the glass; they remain in the wine longer and there is little danger of spillage due to the narrow mouth.
So the flute is the proper glass for Champagne? Not so, according to winemakers at Chandon and Taittinger. Champagne is, after all, wine. Neither coupe nor flute allows the wine to express its aromatic qualities.
Once at a vertical tasting of Chandon sparkling wines, the presenter put the palm of her hand over the top of the flute, shook the glass to release the wine's aroma, and then buried her nose in the glass. This procedure is not recommended for parties where Champagne is served.
Champagne is actually best served in regular wine glasses, according to one major importer who presented a Champagne seminar at last year's Art of Food and Wine Festival in Palm Desert, California. The flute is useful only as a visual aid to enjoying the appearance of a sparkling wine.
The Finnish crystal producer Orrefors has an elegant compromise design: an extended tulip that provides both the height needed for display of the bubbles, and adequate room to swirl without danger of spillage. This is the design we favor for sparkling wines.
